•
_____
»e Old Corner Book
Store, Inc.
>$ton, - Mass.
Knots, Splices and Rope Work
A PRACTICAL TREATISE
Giving Complete and Simple Directions for
Making All the Most Useful and Ornamental
Knots in Common Use, with Chapters on Splic-
ing, Pointing, Seizing, Serving, etc. Adapted for
the use of Travellers, Campers, Yachtsmen, Boy
Scouts, and all others having to use or handle
ropes for any purpose.
By
A. HYATT VERRILL
Editor Popular Science Dept., "American Boy Magazine."
Illustrated with 150 Original Cuts Showing How Each
Knot. Tic or Splice is Formed and Its
Appearance When Complete.
M.W YORK
THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO.
■ NASSAU STREET
Copyrighted 1912
BY
THE
NORMAN
W.
HENLEY PUBLISHING CO.
tion, Kh-ctrotypiriK and Pn-sswork by Publishers Printing Company, New York.
CONTENTS
PAGE
Introduction 3
CHAPTER I
CORDAGE
Kinds of Rope. Construction of Rope. Strength of
Ropes. Weight of Ropes. Material Used in Making
Ropes 13
CHAPTER II
SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
Parts of Rope. Whipping and Seizing Rope. Loops.
Cuckolds' Necks. Clinches. Overhand and Figure-
eight Knots. Square and Reef Knots. Granny Knots.
Open-hand and Fishermen's Knots. Ordinary Knots
and Weavers' Knots. Garrick Bends and Hawser
Hitches. Half-hitches 17
CHAPTER III
TIES AND HITCHES
Larks' Heads. Slippery and Half-hitches. Clove Hitches.
Gunners' Knots and Timber Hitches. Twist
paws, and Blackwall Hitches. Chain Hitch. Rolling
and Magnus Hitches. Studding-sail and Gaff-tO]
Halyard Bends. Roband and Fisherman's Hitches . 30
5
6 CONTENTS
CHAPTER IV
P^GE
NOOSES, LOOPS, AND MOORING KNOTS
Waterman's Knot. Larks' Heads with Nooses. Cleat and
Wharf Ties. Bow-line Knots. Loops and Loop Knots . 43
CHAPTER V
SHORTENINGS, GROMMETS, AND SELVAGEES
Two-, Three-, and Fivefold Shortenings. Single Plaits
and Monkey-Chain. Twist Braids and Braiding Leath-
er. Open Chains. Seized and Bow Shortenings. Sheep-
shanks and Dogshanks. Grommets. Selvagee Straps
and Selvagee Boards. Flemish and Artificial Eyes.
Throat Seizings. Lashed Splices 50
CHAPTER VI
LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, SPLICES, ETC.
Wedding Knots and Rose Lashings. Deadeye and Loop
Lashings. Belaying-pin Splice. Necklace Ties. Close
Bands and End Pointing. Ending Ropes. Short Splices.
Long Splices. Eye and Cut Splices 65
CHAPTER VII
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK
Single Crown Knots. Tucked Crowns. Single Wall
Knots. Common and French Shroud Knots. Double
Crown and Double Wall Knots. Crowning Wall Knots.
Double Wall and Crown. Manrope Knots. Topsail-
halyard Toggles. Matthew Walker and Stopper Knots.
Turks' Heads and Turks' Caps. Worming, Parcelling,
and Serving. Serving Mallet. Half-hitch Work. Four-
strand and Crown Braids. Rope Buckles and Swivels.
Slinging Casks and Barrels. Rope Belting . ... 77
Index 99
INTRODUCTION
The history of ropes and knots is so dim
and ancient that really little is known of
their origin. That earliest man used cord-
age of some kind and by his ingenuity
succeeded in tying the material together,
is indisputable, for the most ancient carv-
ings and decorations of prehistoric man
show knots in several forms. Doubtless
the trailing vines and plants first suggested
ropes to human beings; and it is quite
probable that these same vines, in their
various twistings and twinings, gave man
his first idea of knots.
Since the earliest times knots have been
everywhere interwoven with human affairs;
jugglers have used them in their tricks;
they have become almost a part of many
occupations and trades, while in song and
story they have become the symbol of
steadfastness and strength.
7
8 INTRODUCTION
Few realize the importance that knots
and cordage have played in the world's
history, but if it had not been for these
simple and every-day things, which as a rule
are given far too little consideration, the
human race could never have developed
beyond savages. Indeed, I am not sure
but it would be safe to state that the real
difference between civilized and savage
man consists largely in the knowledge of
knots and rope work. No cloth could be
woven, no net or seine knitted, no bow
strung and no craft sailed on lake or sea
without numerous knots and proper lines
or ropes; and Columbus himself would have
been far more handicapped without knots
than without a compass.
History abounds with mention of knots,
and in the eighth book of " Odyssey' '
Ulysses is represented as securing various
articles of raiment by a rope fastened in a
"knot closed with Circean art"; and as
further proof of the prominence the ancients
gave to knots the famous Gordian Knot
may be mentioned. Probably no one will
ever learn just how this fabulous knot was
tied, and like many modern knots it was
INTRODUCTION 9
doubtless far easier for Alexander to cut
it than to untie it.
The old sorcerers used knots in various
ways, and the witches of Lapland sold
sailors so-called "Wind Knots,' ' which were
untied by the sailors when they desired a
particular wind. Even modern conjurors
and wizards use knots extensively in their
exhibitions and upon the accuracy and
manner in which their knots are tied depends
the success of their tricks.
In heraldry many knots have been used
as symbols and badges and many old Coats
of Arms bear intricate and handsome knots,
or entwined ropes, emblazoned upon them.
As to the utility of knots and rope work
there can be no question. A little knowl-
edge of knots has saved many a life in storm
and wreck, and if every one knew how to
quickly and securely tie a knot there would
be far fewer casualities in hotel and similar
fires. In a thousand ways and times a
knowledge of rope and knots is useful and
many times necessary. Many an accident
has occurred through a knot or splice being
improperly formed, and even in tying an
ordinary bundle or "roping" a trunk or
10 INTRODUCTION
box few people tie a knot that is secure and
yet readily undone and quickly made. In
a life of travel and adventure in out-of-the-
way places, in yachting or boating, in hunt-
ing or fishing, and even in motoring, to
command a number of good knots and
splices is to make life safer, easier, and more
enjoyable, aside from the real pleasure one
may find in learning the interesting art of
knot-tying.
Through countless ages the various forms
of knots and fastenings for rope, cable, or
cord have been developed; the best kinds
being steadily improved and handed down
from generation to generation, while the
poor or inferior fastenings have been dis-
carded by those whose callings required the
use of cordage.
Gradually, too, each profession or trade
has adopted the knots best suited to its
requirements, and thus we find the Sailor's
Knot; the Weaver's Knot; Fishermen's
knots; Builders' knots; Butchers' knots;
and many others which have taken their
names from the use to which they are
especially adapted.
In addition to these useful knots, there
INTRODUCTION II
are many kinds of ornamental or fancy
knots used in ornamenting the ends of
ropes, decorating shrouds of vessels, railings,
and similar objects; while certain braids or
plaits, formed by a series of knots, are
widely used aboard ship and on land.
In many cases ropes or cable must be
joined in such a way that they present a
smooth and even sur md for such pur-
poses splices are used, while knots us
merely as temporar; md which
mtist be readily and quickly tied and un-
tied are commonly known as "bends" or
" hitches." Oddly enough, it is far easier
to tie a poor knot than a good one, and in
ninety-nine c ut of a hundred the
tyro, when attempting to join two ropes
together, will tie either a "slippery" or a
" jamming" knot and will seldom -
in making a recognized and " ship-shape' '
knot of any sort.
The number of knots, ties, bends, hitches,
splices, and shortenings in use is aim
unlimited and they are most confusing and
bewildering to the uninitiated. The most
useful and ornamental, a- will as the m
reliable, are comparatively few in number,
12 INTRODUCTION
and in reality each knot learned leads
readily to another; in the following pages
I have endeavored to describe them in such
a manner that their construction may be
readily understood and mastered.
THE AUTHOR.
April, 1912.
KNOTS, SPLICES AND
ROPE WORK
CHAPTER I
Cordage
Before taking up the matter of knots
and splices in detail it may be well to give
attention to cordage in general. Cordage,
in its broadest sense, includes all forms
and kinds of rope, string, twine, cable, etc.,
formed of braided or twisted strands. In
making a rope or line the fibres (A, Fig. i)
of hemp, jute, cotton, or other material
are loosely twisted together to form what
is technically known as a "yarn" (B, Fig.
i). When two or more yarns are twisted
together they form a " strand M (C, Fig. i).
Three or more strands form a rope (D,
Fig. i), and three ropes form a cable (£,
Fig. i). To form a strand the yarns are
twisted together in the opposite direction
from that in which the original fibres were
twisted; to form a rope the strands are
twisted in the opposite direction from the
13
14 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
yarns of the strands, and to form a cable
each rope is twisted opposite from the
twist of the strands. In this way the
natural tendency for each yarn, strand, or
rope to untwist serves to bind or hold the
whole firmly together (Fig. i).
Rope is usually three-stranded and the
Fig. i. — Construction of rope.
strands turn from left to right or "with the
sun," while cable is left-handed or twisted
" against the sun" (£, Fig. i). Certain
ropes, such as "bolt-rope" and most cables,
are laid around a "core" (F, Fig. 2) or
central strand and in many cases are four-
stranded (Fig. 2).
The strength of a rope depends largely
upon the strength and length of the fibres
from which it is made, but the amount each
CORDAGE
15
yarn and strand is twisted, as well as the
method used in bleaching or preparing the
fibres, has much to do with the strength of
the finished line.
Roughly, the strength of ropes may be
calculated by multiplying the circumference
of the rope in inches by itself and the fifth
part of the product will be the number of
tons the rope will sustain. For example,
if the rope is 5 inches in circumference,
5 X 5 = 25, one-fifth of which is 5, the
number of tons that can safely be carried
on a 5-inch rope. To ascertain the weight
of ordinary "right hand" rope, multiply
the circumference in inches by itself and
multiply the result by the length of rope in
fathoms and divide the product by 3.75.
1 6 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
For example, to find the weight of a 5-inch
rope, 50 fathoms in length: 5 x 5 = 25; 25 X
50 = 1,250; 1,250 * 3.75 - 333! lbs. These
figures apply to Manila or hemp rope,
which is the kind commonly used, but jute,
sisal-flax, grass, and silk are also used
considerably. Cotton rope is seldom used
save for small hand-lines, clothes-lines,
twine, etc., while wire rope is largely used
nowadays for rigging vessels, derricks,
winches, etc., but as splicing wire rope is
different from the method employed in
fibre rope, and as knots have no place in
wire rigging, we will not consider it.
CHAPTER II
Simple Knots and Bends
For convenience in handling rope and
learning the various knots, ties, and bends,
we use the terms " standing part," "bight,"
and "end" (Fig. 3). The Standing Part is
the principal portion or longest part of the
rope; the Bight is the part curved or bent
while working or handling; while the End is
that part used in forming the knot or hitch.
Before commencing work the loose ends or
strands of a rope should be "whipped"
or "seized" to prevent the rope from un-
ravelling; and although an expert can
readily tie almost any knot, make a splice,
or in fact do pretty nearly anything with
a loose-ended rope, yet it is a wise plan
to invariably whip the end of every rope,
cable, or hawser to be handled, while a
marline-spike, fid, or pointed stick will also
prove of great help in working rope.
To whip or seize a rope-end, take a piece
of twine or string and lay it on the rope an
2 17
18
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
inch or two from the end, pass the twine
several times around the rope, keeping
the ends of the twine under the first few
Fig. 3. — Parts of rope.
turns to hold it in place ; then make a large
loop with the free end of twine; bring it
back to the rope and continue winding
Fig. 4.
for three or four turns around both rope
and end of twine ; and then finish by draw-
ing the loop tight by pulling on the free
end (Fig. 4).
SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
19
All knots are begun by "loops" or rings
commonly known to mariners as "Cuckolds'
Necks" (Fig. 5). These may be either over-
Fig. 5. — Cuckolds' necks.
hand or underhand, and when a seizing or
fastening of twine is placed around the two
parts where they cross a useful rope ring
Fig. 6. — Clinch.
known as a "clinch" is formed (Fig. 6).
If the loose end of the rope is passed over
the standing part and through the "cuck-
20 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
old's neck, " the simplest of all knots, known
as the " Overhand Knot, " is made (Fig. 7).
This drawn tight appears as in Fig. 8, and
while so simple this knot is important, as it
Fig. 7 Fig. 8
Figs. 7 and 8. — Overhand knots.
is frequently used in fastening the ends of
yarns and strands in splicing, whipping, and
seizing. The "Figure-Eight Knot" is al-
most as simple as the overhand and is
plainly shown in Figs. 9 and 10. Only a
Fig. 9 Fig. io
Figs. 9 and io. — Figure-eight knots.
step beyond the figure-eight and the over-
hand knots are the ' L Square ' ' and ' ' Reefing ' '
knots (Figs. 11 and 12). The square knot
is probably the most useful and widely used
of any common knot and is the best all-
SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
21
around knot known. It is very strong,
never slips or becomes jammed, and is
readily untied. To make a square knot,
take the ends of the rope and pass the left
Fig. ii Fig. 12
Figs, ii and 12. — Square knots.
end over and under the right end, then the
right over and under the left. If you once
learn the simple formula of "Left over,"
" Right over," you will never make a mis-
Fig. 13. — Granny knot.
take and form the despised " Granny, " a
most useless, bothersome, and deceptive
makeshift for any purpose (Fig. 13). The
true " Ri'i'i Knot M is merely the square knot
22 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
with the bight of the left or right end used
instead of the end itself. This enables the
knot to be "cast off " more readi y than the
regular square knot (A, Fig. 12). Neither
square nor reef knots, however, are reliable
Fig. 14. — Slipped square knot.
when tying two ropes of unequal size to-
gether, for under such conditions they will
frequently slip and appear as in Fig. 14, and
sooner or later will pull apart. To prevent
this the ends may be tied or seized as
Fig. 15. — Square knot with ends seized.
shown in Fig. 15. A better way to join
two ropes of unequal diameter is to use the
"Open-hand Knot." This knot is shown
in Fig. 16, and is very quickly and easily
made; it never slips or gives, but is rather
SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
23
large and clumsy, and if too great a strain
is put on the rope it is more likely to break
at the knot than at any other spot. The
"Fisherman's Knot, " shown in Fig. 17, is
a good knot and is formed by two simple
overhand knots slipped over each rope,
Fig. 16. — Open-hand knots.
and when drawn taut appears as in Fig.
18. This is an important and valuable
knot for anglers, as the two lines may be
drawn apart by taking hold of the ends,
Ay B, and a third line for a sinker, or extra
hook, may be inserted between them. In
joining gut lines the knot should be left
24 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
slightly open and the space between wrapped
with silk. This is probably the strongest
known method of fastening fine lines.
Fig. 17. — Fisherman's knot (making).
Fig. 18. — Fisherman's knot (finished).
The " Ordinary Knot," for fastening
heavy ropes, is shown in Fig. 19. It is
made by forming a simple knot and then
Fig. 19. — Ordinary knot (finished).
interlacing the other rope or " following
around," as shown in Fig. 20. This knot
is very strong, will not slip, is easy to make,
SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
25
and does not strain the fibres of the rope.
Moreover, ropes joined with this knot will
pay out, or hang, in a straight line. By
whipping the ends to the standing parts it
Fig. 20. — Ordinary knot (tying).
becomes a neat and handsome knot (Fig.
21). The "Weaver's Knot" (Fig. 22) is
more useful in joining small lines, or twine,
than for rope, and for thread it is without
Fig. 21. — Ordinary knot (seized).
doubt the best knot known. The ends are
crossed as in Fig. 23. The end A is then
looped back over the end B, and the end
B is slipped through loop Cand drawn tight.
Another useful and handsome knot is
illustrated in Fig. 24. This is a variation
26 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
of the figure-eight knot, already described,
and is used where there is too much rope,
Fig. 22. — Weaver's knot (complete).
or where a simple knot is desired to prevent
the rope running through an eye, ring, or
Fig. 23. — Weaver's knot (tying).
tackle-block. It is made by forming a
regular figure eight and then " following
Fig. 24. — Double figure-eight knot (complete).
round" with the other rope as in Fig. 25.
It is then drawn taut and the ends seized
to the standing part if desired.
SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
27
Sometimes we have occasion to join two
heavy or stiff ropes or hawsers, and for this
purpose the "Garrick Bend" (Fig. 26) is
Fig. 25. — Double figure-eight knot (tying).
preeminently the best of all knots. To
make this knot, form a bight by laying
Fig. 2(>. — Garrick bend (finished).
the end of a rope on top of and across the
standing part. Next take the v\u\ of the
other rope and pass it through this bight,
28
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
first down, then up, over the cross and down
through the bight again, so that it comes
out on the opposite side from the other end,
thus bringing one end on top and the other
Fig. 27. — Garrick bend (tying).
below, as illustrated in Fig. 27. If the lines
are very stiff or heavy the knot may be
secured by seizing the ends to the standing
Fig. 28. — Simple hitch (hawser).
parts. A much simpler and a far poorer
knot is sometimes used in fastening two
heavy ropes together. This is a simple
hitch within a loop, as illustrated in Fig.
SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
29
28, but while it has the advantage of being
quickly and easily tied it is so inferior to
the Garrick bend that I advise all to adopt
the latter in its place.
When two heavy lines are to be fastened
for any considerable time, a good method
Fig. 29. — Half-hitch and seizing.
is to use the "Half-hitch and Seizing/'
shown in Fig. 29. This is a secure and easy
method of fastening ropes together and it al-
lows the rope to be handled more easily, and
to pass around a winch or to be coiled much
more readily, than when other knots are
used.
CHAPTER III
Ties and Hitches
All the knots I have so far described
are used mainly for fastening the two ends
of a rope, or of two ropes, together. Of
quite a different class are the knots used in
making a rope fast to a stationary or solid
object, and are known as " hitches' ' or
"ties."
One of the easiest of this class to make
and one which is very useful in fastening a
boat or other object where it may be neces-
sary to release it quickly is the "Lark's
Head" (Fig. 30). To make this tie, pass a
bight of your rope through the ring, or
other object, to which you are making fast
and then pass a marline-spike, a billet of
wood, or any similar object through the
sides of the bight and under or behind the
standing part, as shown in A} Fig. 30. The
end of the rope may then be laid over and
under the standing part and back over
itself. This knot may be instantly released
30
TIES AND HITCHES
31
by merely pulling out the toggle. Almost
as quickly made and unfastened is the
"Slippery Hitch M (Fig. 32). To make this,
run the end of the rope through the ring
or eye to which it is being fastened, then
back over the standing part and pull a loop,
Fig. 30. — Lark's head with
toggle (.4).
Fig. 31. — Lark's head with
toggle (.4) withdrawn.
or bight, back through the " cuckold's neck"
thus formed (Fig. 33). To untie, merely
pull on the free end. Two half-hitches,
either around a post or timber or around
the standing part of the rope, make an ideal
and quickly tied fastening (Figs. 34 and
35). To make these, pass the end around
32 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
the post, ring, or other object, then over
and around the standing part between the
post and itself, then under and around the
Fig. 32. — Slippery hitch
(complete).
Fig. 33. —Slippery hitch
(tying).
standing part and between its own loop and
the first one formed. After a little practice
you can tie this knot almost instantly and
by merely throwing a couple of turns
around a post, two half-hitches may be
formed instantly. This knot will hold
forever without loosening, and even on a
smooth, round stick or spar it will stand
an enormous strain without slipping. A
more secure knot for this same purpose is
the " Clove Hitch' ' (Fig. 36), sometimes
TIES AND HITCHES
33
known as the u Builders, Hitch. " To make
this, pass the end of rope around the spar
or timber, then over itself; over and
around the spar, and pass the end under
itself and between rope and spar, as shown
in the illustration. The Clove hitch with
ends knotted becomes the " Gunners' Knot M
Fig. 34- Fig. 35-
Figs. 34 and 35. — Half-hitches.
(Fig. 37). These are among the most valu-
able and important of knots and are useful
in a thousand and one places. The Clove
hitch will hold fast on a smooth timber and
is used extensively by builders for fastening
the stageing to the upright posts. It is
also useful in making a tow-line fast to a
wet spar, or timber, and even on a slimy
and slippery spile it will seldom slip. For
this purpose the "Timber Hitch91 (Fig. 32)
is even better than the Clove hitch. It is
3
34
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
easily made by passing the end of a rope
around the spar or log, round the standing
part of the rope and then twist it three or
more times around, under and over itself.
Fig. 36 A. — Clove hitch or builder's hitch (tying).
Fig. 36 B. — Clove hitch (complete).
If you wish this still more secure, a single
half-hitch may be taken with the line a
couple of feet further along the spar (Fig.
39).
TIES AND HITCHES
35
It is remarkable what power to grip a
twisted rope has, and the " Twist Knots' '
shown in Figs. 40 and 41 illustrate two
Fig. 37. — Gunner's knot.
ways of making fast which are really not
knots at all but merely twists. These may
be finished by a simple knot, or a bow-knot,
Fig. 38.— Timber hitch.
as shown in Fig. 42, but they are likely to
jam under great pressure and are mainly
useful in tying packages, or bundles, with
36 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
small cord, where the line must be held taut
until the knot is completed. This principle
of fastening by twisted rope is also utilized
Fig. 39. — Timber hitch and half-hitch.
in the "Catspaw M (Fig. 43), a most useful
knot or " hitch' ' for hoisting with a hook.
Figs. 40 and 41. — " Twists."
To make this, pass the bight of your rope
over the end and standing part, then, with
a bight in each hand, take three twists from
TIES AND HITCHES 37
you, then bring the two bights side by side
and throw over the hook (Fig. 44).
The "Blackwall HitchM (Fig. 45) is still
Fig. 42. — Twist with bow.
simpler and easier to make and merely con-
sists of a loop, or cuckold's neck, with the
end of rope passed underneath the standing
Fig. 43. — Cat-paw. FlG. 44. — Catspaw (tying).
38
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
part and across the hook so that as soon as
pressure is exerted the standing part bears
on the end and jams it against the hook.
Fig. 45. — Blackwall hitch.
The "Chain Hitch" (Fig. 46) is a very
strong method of fastening a line to a
timber, or large rope, where one has a rope
of sufficient length, and is used frequently
Fig. 46. — Chain hitch.
to help haul in a large rope or for similar
purposes. It consists simply of a number
of half-hitches taken at intervals around
the object and is sometimes used with a
TIES AND HITCHES 39
lever or handspike, as shown in Fig. 47.
The "Rolling Hitch" is a modified Clove
hitch and is shown in Fig. 48. The
Fig. 47. — Chain hitch with bar.
" Magnus Hitch" (Fig. 49) is a method fre-
quently used on shipboard for holding spars;
and the " Studding-sail Bend" (Fig. 50) is
also used for this purpose. Occasions
Fig. 48. — Rolling hitch. Fig. 49. — Magnus hitch.
sometimes arise where a tackle, hook, ring,
or another rope must be fastened to a beam
by the same rope being used, and in such
4Q
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
cases the "Roband Hitch" (Fig. 51) comes
in very handy. These are all so simple and
easily understood from the figures that no
Fig. 50. — Studding-sail bend.
explanation is necessary. Almost as simple
are the " Midshipman's Hitch" (Fig. 52), the
" Fisherman's Hitch' ' (Fig. 53), and the
Fig. 51 A. — Roband hitch
(front).
Fig. 51 B. — Roband hitch
(back).
TIES AND HITCHES
41
"Gaff Topsail Halyard Bend" (Fig. 54).
The midshipman's hitch is made by taking
a half-hitch around the standing part and a
round turn twice around above it. The
Fig. 52. — Midshipman's hitch.
fisherman's hitch is particularly useful in
making fast large hawsers; with the end
of a rope take two turns around a spar, or
through a ring; take* a half-hitch around
42 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
the standing part and under all the turns;
then a half-hitch round the standing part
only and if desired seize the end to standing
Fig. 53. — Fisherman's hitch.
part. The gaff-topsail bend is formed by
passing two turns around the yard and
Fig. 54. — Gaff-topsail halyard bend.
coming up on a third turn over both the
first two turns; over its own part and one
turn; then stick the end under the first turn.
CHAPTER IV
Nooses, Loops and Mooring Knots
Nothing is more interesting to a lands-
man than the manner in which a sailor
handles huge, dripping hawsers or cables
and wTith a few deft turns makes then fast to
a pier-head or spile, in such a way that the
ship's winches, warping the huge structure
o or from the dock, do not cause the slight-
est give or slip to the rope and yet, a moment
later, with a few quick motions, the line
is cast off, tightened up anew, or paid out
as required Clove hitches, used as illus-
trated in Fig. 55, and known as the " Water-
man's Knot," are often used, with a man
holding the free end, for in this way a slight
pull holds the knot fast, while a little slack
gives the knot a chance to slip without
giving way entirely and without exerting
any appreciable pull on the man holding the
end.
"Larks' Heads" are also used in conjunc-
tion with a running noose, as shown in Fig.
43
44
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
56, while a few turns under and over and
around a cleat, or about two spiles, is a
Fig. 55. — Waterman's knot.
method easily understood and universally
used by sailors (Fig. 57). The sailor's knot
Fig. 56. — Larks' heads and running noose.
par excellence, however, is the "Bow-line"
(Fig. 58), and wherever we find sailors, or
NOOSES, LOOPS, AND MOORING KNOTS 45
seamen, we will find this knot in one or
another of its various forms. When you
can readily and surely tie this knot every
time, you may feel yourself on the road to
11 Marline-spike Seamanship, " for it is a true
Fig. 57. — Cleat and wharf ties.
sailor's knot and never slips, jams, or fails;
is easily and quickly untied, and is useful
in a hundred places around boats or in fact
in any walk of life. The knot in its various
stages is well shown in Fig. 59 and by
following these illustrations you will under-
stand it much better than by a description
alone. In A the rope is shown with a bight
or cuckold's neck formed with the end over
46
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
the standing part. Pass A back through
the bight, under, then over, then under,
as shown in B, then over and down through
the bight, as shown in C and D, and draw
Fig. 58. — Bow-line.
Fig. 59.— Tying bow-line.
NOOSES, LOOPS, AND MOORING KNOTS 47
taut, as in E. The " Bow-line on a Bight' '
(Fig 60) is just as easily made and is very
useful in slinging casks or barrels and in
forming a seat for men to be lowered over
cliffs, or buildings, or to be hoisted aloft
Fig. 60. — Bow-line on bight. Fig. 61. — Running bow-line.
aboard ship for painting, cleaning, or rigging.
A u Running Bow-line" (Fig. 61) is merely a
bow-line with the end passed through the
loop, thus forming a slip knot. Other
"Loops" are made as shown n F gs. 62-65,
but none of these are as safe, sure, and useful
as the bow-line. One of these knots, known
98 the "Tomfool Knot" (Fig. 66), is used as
48
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
handcuffs and has become quite famous,
owing to its having baffled a number of
" Handcuff Kings' ' and other performers
Fig. 62. — Loop knot.
Fig. 63. — Loop knot.
Fig. 64. — Loop knot.
Fig. 65. — Loop knot.
who readily escaped from common knots and
manacles. It is made like the running knot
(Fig. 62), and the firm end is then passed
NOOSES, LOOPS, AND MOORING KNOTS 49
through the open, simple knot so as to
form a double loop or bow. If the hands or
wrists are placed within these loops and
Fig. 66. — Tomfool knot.
the latter drawn taut, and the loose ends
tied firmly around the central part, a pair
of wonderfully secure handcuffs results.
4
CHAPTER V
Shortenings, Grommets, and Selvagees
In many cases a rope may prove too long
for our use or the free ends may be awk-
ward, or in the way. At such times a
knowledge of " shortenings' ' is valuable.
There are quite a variety of these useful
knots, nearly all of which are rather hand-
some and ornamental, in fact a number of
them are in constant use aboard ship
merely for ornament.
The simplest form of shortening, shown
in Fig. 67, is a variation of the common and
simple overhand knot already described and
illustrated. These knots are formed by
passing the end of a rope twice or more
times through the loop of the simple knot
and then drawing it tight (Fig. 68). They
are known as ''Double," " Treble," "Four-
fold," or " Sixfold " knots and are used to
prevent a rope from passing through a ring
or block as well as for shortening. All
gradations from the double to the sixfold
50
/
SHORTENINGS
51
are shown in Fig. 69, both in process of
making and as they appear when drawn
taut. Another very simple form of short-
ening is shown in Fig. 70 and is known as
Fig. 67. — Twofold shortening
(making).
Fig. 68— Twofold short-
ening (taut).
the " Single Plait," or "Chain Knot." To
make this shortening, make a running loop
(A, Fig. 70), then draw a bight of the rope
through this loop, as shown at B, draw
another bight through this, as at C to D, and
Fig. 69. — Three- and fivefold shortening.
continue in this way until the rope is
shortened to the desired length; the free
end should then be fastened by passing a
bit of stick through the last loop, F, or by
52 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
running the free end through the last loop,
as at E. To undo this shortening, it is
only necessary to slip out the free end, or
the bit of wood, and pull on the end, when
Fig. 70. — Single plait or monkey chain (making).
the entire knot will quickly unravel. The
"Twist," or " Double Chain," is made in a
similar manner but is commenced in a
different way (A, Fig. 71). It may also be
made with three separate pieces of line, as
SHORTENINGS 53
shown in B, Fig. 71. Hold the double loop
in the left hand; the part A is then brought
over B ; with a half turn B is crossed over to
A, and then proceed as in the ordinary three-
strand plait until the end of loop is reached,
Fig. 70 F. — Monkey chain or single plait (complete).
when the loose end Is1 fastened by passing
through the bight and the completed short-
ening appears as in Fig. 72. This same
process is often used by Mexicans and
Westerners in making bridles, headstalls,
etc., of leather. The leather to be used is
-lit lengthwise from near one end to near
the other, as shown in Fig. 73, and the braid
is formed as described. The result appears
54
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
as in Fig. 74, and in this way the ends of the
leather strap remain uncut, and thus much
stronger and neater than they would be
were three separate strips used.
J3
Fig. 71. — Twist braid (making).
Fig. 72. — Twist braid (complete).
Another handsome knot for shortening is
the more highly ornamental "Open Chain' '
(Fig. 75). Make the first loop of the rope
Fig. 73. — Leather cut to braid.
secure by a twist of the rope and then pass
the loose end through the preceding loop,
to right and left alternately, until the knot
is complete. .
SHORTENINGS
55
The simplest of all shortenings consists
of a loop taken in the rope with the bights
FlG. 74. — Leather braid (complete).
seized to the standing part (Fig. 76). This
is particularly well adapted to heavy rope
Fig. 75. — Open chain.
or where a shortening must be made quickly.
Fig. 77 shows another very simple shorten-
FlG. 76. — Seized shortening.
ing, which requires no description. This
will not withstand a very great strain but is
56
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
secure from untying by accident and is very
useful for taking up spare rope of lashings
on bundles or baggage. " Sheepshanks/ '
Fig. 77. — Bow shortening.
or "Dogshanks," are widely used for short-
ening rope, especially where both ends are
fast, as they can be readily made in the
Fig. 78. — Sheepshank.
centre of. a tied rope. There are several
forms of these useful knots. The best and
most secure form is shown in Fig. 78. A
Fig. 79. — Another sheepshank.
simple running knot is first made; a bend
is pushed through the loop, which is then
drawn taut; the other end of the bend is
SHORTENINGS
57
fastened in a similar manner and the short-
ening is complete A much simpler form is
shown in Fig. 79, but this can hardly be
depended upon unless the ends are seized,
Fig. 80. — Sheepshank with ends seized.
as shown in Fig. 80. Figs. 81-82 illustrate
two other forms of shortenings, but these
can only be used where the end of the rope
^r^Z^ ^ *^*^X<*Z*5ZZ=*
Fig. 81. — Sheepshank for free-ended rope.
is free, and are intended for more permanent
fastenings than the ordinary sheepshank;
while Fig. 83 is particularly adapted to be
Fig. 82. — Sheepshank for free-ended rope.
cast loose at a moment's notice by jerking
out the toggles, A, B.
Grommets are round, endless rings of
rope useful in a myriad ways aboard ship
58 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
as well as ashore. They are often used as
handles for chests, for rings with which to
play quoits, to lengthen rope, and in many
similar ways. The grommet is formed of
a single strand of rope five times as long as
the circumference of the grommet when
a js
Fig. 83. — Sheepshank with toggle.
complete. Take the strand and lay one
end across the other at the size of loop
required and with the long end follow
the grooves or "lay" of the strand until
back to where you started (Fig. 84), thus
forming a two-stranded ring. Then con-
tinue twisting the free end between the
turns already made until the three-strand
ring is complete (Fig. 85). Now finish and
secure the ends by making overhand knots,
pass the ends underneath the nearest
strands and trim ends off close (Fig. 86).
If care is taken and you remember to keep a
strong twist on the strand while "laying up "
the grommet, the finished ring will be as
GROMMETS
59
firm and smooth and endless as the original
rope.
A "Sevagee" or "Selvagee" strap is an-
other kind of ring (Fig. 87). This is made
by passing a number of strands or yarns
Fig. 84
Fig. 85
Figs. 84, 85, and 86.
Fig. 86
rommet complete and making.
around pins or nails set in a board (Fig. 88),
and binding the whole together with a seiz-
ing of yarn or marline (Fig. 89). These are
strong, durable straps much used for blocks
aboard ship, for handles to boxes and chests,
and in many similar ways. A "Flemish
Eye" (Fig. 90) is an eye made in a manner
60 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
much like that employed in forming the
selvagee strap. Take a spar or piece of
wood the size of the intended eye A.
Fig. 87. — Selvagee strap.
Around this wood lay a number of pieces
of yarn or marline, J5, B, B, and fasten them
by tying with twine as at C. Whip the
Fig. 88. — Selvagee board.
Fig. 89. — Seizing a selvagee strap.
piece of rope in which eye is to be formed
and unravel and open out the strands as
at D. Lap the yarns over the wood and
SELVAGEES
61
the stops B, and fasten together by over-
hand knots £, worm the free ends under
and over and then bring up the ends of the
stops B and tie around the strands of eye as
shown. The eye may be finished neatly by
Fig. 90 A. — Making Flemish eye.
whipping all around with yarn or marline,
and will then appear as in Fig. 90 B. An
" Artificial Eye" (Fig. 91) is still another
form of eye which will be found useful and
in some ways easier and quicker to make
than a spliced eye, besides being stronger.
Take the end of a rope and unlay one
strand; place the two remaining strands
back alongside of the standing part (Fig. 92).
62 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
Pass the loose strand which has been unlaid
over the end, and follow around the spaces
between the two strands and then around
eye, — as in making a grommet, — until it
Fig. 90 B. — Flemish eye
(complete).
Fig. 91. — Artificial eye.
returns down the standing part and lies
under the eye with the strands (Fig. 93).
Then divide the strands, taper them down,
and whip the whole with yarn or marline
(Fig. 94).
Still another eye which at times will be
useful is the " Throat Seizing," shown in
Fig. 95. This is made by opening the end
slightly and lashing it to the standing part
SELVAGEES
63
Fig. 92
Fig. 93
Figs. 92 and 93. — Making artificial eye.
Fig. 94.— Artificial eye (whipped).
FlG. 95. — Throat seizing.
64
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
as shown. Another ring sometimes used is
illustrated in Fig. 96, and is easily and
quickly made by lashing the two ends of a
Fig. 96. — Lashed cut-splice.
short rope to the standing part of another.
Cuckolds' necks with lashings or " Clinches' '
are also used for the same purpose.
CHAPTER VI
Lashings, Seizings, Splices, etc.
Almost any one can lash a rope more or
less satisfactorily, but a knowledge of how
to do this properly and in the manner best
suited to each case is of great importance
to seamen and others having occasion to
handle ropes, rigging, or in fact any cordage.
The varieties of lashings, seizings, whip-
pings, and servings are almost innumerable,
but a few of the best and most frequently
used are the " Wedding Knot" or "Rose
Lashing, " the "Deadeye Lashing, M the
" Belaying-pin Splice, M the "Necklace Tie,"
the "Close Band," and "End Pointings."
The rose lashing (Fig. 97) is used to join
two eyes or ropes finished with loops. The
deadeye lashing (Fig. 98) is frequently used
on ships' standing rigging and is a familiar
sight to every one who has seen a sailing-
vessel. It consists of a small line reeved
back and forth through the holes in the
"deadeyes," A; the ends are then seized
5 65
66
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
to the standing rigging to prevent slip-
ping. This lashing admits of easy and
rapid lengthening or shortening of the rig-
Fig. 97. — Rose lashing.
ging and is particularly useful in connection
with wire cable. A similar method may be
used with loops instead of deadeyes (Fig.
Fig. 98. — Deadeye lashing.
99). The belaying-pin splice, shown in Fig.
100, is a quick and handy way of fasten-
ing two ropes together and is of great value
Fig. 99. — Loop lashing.
when rigging is carried away and some
quick method of joining the severed ends is
required. Pass a belaying-pin or similar
LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, SPLICES, ETC. 67
toggle through an eye or loop in one end
of a rope and pass this through a loop or
eye in the broken rope end. Form a loop
in the other broken end, slip the free end of
Fig. 100. — Belaying-pin splice.
the lanyard through this and around another
toggle or pin and haul taut; then fasten by
half-hitches around standing part (A, Fig.
100), or by seizing (B, Fig. ioo). This is
a strong, reliable fastening and can be tight-
ened up or instantly thrown off at will.
Fig. 101.— Necklace tit .
The necklace tie is useful in holding two
ropes, hawsers, or timbers side by side (Fig.
101). The lashing is passed around and
around the two objects to be joined and the
68
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
ends secured by a square knot passed around
the band lengthwise. The close band is
used for the same purposes as the last
and is made in the same manner, but the
ends are fastened by drawing through be-
neath the turns (Fig. 102).
End pointings are very useful as well as
ornamental, for while an ordinary seizing
or whipping will prevent the strands from
Fig. 102. — Close band.
unravelling, the ends are broad and clumsy
and oftentimes are too large to pass through
a block or eye large enough for the rest of
the rope. The ordinary way of pointing a
rope is to first whip as described (Fig. 4),
and then unlay the end as for the Flemish
eye. Take out about two-thirds of the yarns
and twist each in two. Take two parts of
different yarns and twist together with
finger and thumb, keeping the lay on the
yarn and thus forming left-handed stuff
LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, SPLICES, ETC.
69
known as "nettles." Comb out the rest
of the yarn with a knife, leaving a few to
lay back upon the rope. Xow pass three
turns of twine like a timber-hitch tightly
around the part where the nettles separate
and fasten the twine, and while passing
Fig. 103. — Pointing a rope.
this "warp" lay the nettles backward and
forward with each turn. The ends are
now whipped with twine or yarn and finally
"snaked," which is done by taking the end
under and over the outer turns of the
seizing alternately. If the rope is small a
stick is often put in the upper part to
70
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
strengthen it or the tip maybe finished with
a small eye. If properly done a pointed
rope is very handsome and appears as in
B, Fig. 103. Another simple way of finish-
FiG. 104. — Ending rope.
Fig. 105. — Ending rope.
ing a rope end is to seize the end, as at A,
Fig. 104, and open out the strands, bring
the strands back alongside the rope, and
whip the whole (Fig. 105).
Splicing is, in many cases, more useful
and better than tying or bending ropes
together and a good splice always looks
neater and more ship-shape than a knot, no
matter how well-made it may be. A person
familiar with splicing will turn in a splice
almost as quickly as the ordinary man can
tie a secure knot, and in many cases, where
the rope must pass through sheaves or
LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, SPLK BS, ETC, 71
blocks, a splice is absolutely necessary to
fasten two ropes or two parts of a parted
rope together. The simplest of all splices
Fig. 106. — Short splice.
is known as the "Short Splice" (Fig. 106).
This is made as follows: Untwist the ends
of the rope for a few inches and seize with
Fig. 106 D. — Short splice (continued).
twine to prevent further unwinding, as
shown at A, A; also seize the end of each
strand to prevent unravelling and gre.
72 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
or wax the strands until smooth and even.
Now place the two ends of the ropes to-
gether as shown at B, B. Then with a
marline-spike, or a pointed stick, work open
the strand i cy and through this pass the
strand A of the other rope; then open
strand 2 and pass the next strand of the
other rope through it and then the same
way with the third strand. Next open up
the strands of the other rope, below the
seizing, and pass the strands of the first rope
through as before, 3 A, B. The ropes will
now appear as in Fig. 106, D. Now untwist
the six strands and cut away about half the
yarns from each and seize the ends as before ;
pass these reduced strands through under
the whole strands of the rope — the strands
of the left under the strands of the right
rope and vice versa — for two or three lays
and then cut off projecting ends, after
drawing all as tight as you can. If an
extra-neat splice is desired the strands
should be gradually tapered as you proceed,
and in this way a splice but little larger than
the original diameter of the rope will result.
The only difficulty you will find in making
this splice is in getting the strands to come
LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, SPLICES, ETC. 73
together in such a way that two strands
will not run under the same strand of the
opposite rope. To avoid this, bear in
mind that the first strand must be passed over
the strand which is first ?iext to it and through
under the second and out between the second
and third. In the following operations the
strands are passed over the third and under
Fig. 107. — Long splice.
the fourth; but the figures will make this
perfectly clear. A far better and stronger
splice is the "Long Splice, M which will run
through any block or tackle which will admit
the rope itself; indeed, a well-made long
splice cannot be distinguished from the rope
itself after a few days' use (Fig. 107). To
make this useful splice, unlay the ends of
the rope about four times as much as for
the short splice, or from four to five feet,
unlay one strand in each rope for half as
74 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
much again; place the middle strands
together as at A, then the additional strands
will appear as at B and C, and the spiral
groove, left where they were unlaid, will
appear as at D and E. Take off the two
central strands, F and G, and lay them into
Fig. 108. — Eye splice.
the grooves, D, E, until they meet B and C,
and be sure and keep them tightly twisted
while so doing. Then take strands // and /,
cut out half the yarns in each, make an over-
hand knot in them and tuck the ends under
the next lays as in a short splice. Do the
same with strands B, C and F, G; dividing,
knotting, and sticking the divided strands in
the same way. Finally stretch the rope
LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, SPLICES, ETC. 75
tight, pull and pound and roll the splice
until smooth and round, and trim off all
loose ends close to the rope.
An "Eye Splice' ' (Fig. 108) is very easy
to make and is useful and handy in a great
variety of ways. It is made in the same
manner as the short splice, but instead of
splicing the two ends together, the end of
Fig. 109. — Cut splice.
the rope is unlaid and then bent around and
spliced into its own strands of the standing
part, as shown in the illustration. A "Cut
Splice" (Fig. 109) is made just as an eye
splice or short splice, but instead of splicing
two ropes together end to end, or splicing
an end into a standing part, the ends are
lapped and each is spliced into the standing
part of the other, thus forming a loop or
eye in the centre of a rope. Once the short
76 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
and long splices are mastered, all other
splices, as well as many useful variations,
will come easy. Oftentimes, for example,
one strand of a rope may become worn,
frayed, or broken, while the remaining
strands are perfectly sound. In such cases
the weak strand may be unlaid and cut off
and then a new strand of the same length
is laid up in the groove left by the old
strand exactly as in a long splice; the ends
are then tapered, stuck under the lay, as
in a short splice, and the repair is complete;
and if well done will never show and will
be as strong as the original rope.
CHAPTER VII
Fancy Knots and Rope Work
The knots and splices described above
are all more for practical use than ornament,
although such shortenings as the Single and
Double plaits, the Chain knots, the Twofold,
Fourfold, and Sixfold knots, and others are
often used for ornamental purposes only. A
certain class of knots are, however, really
ornamental and seldom serve to fasten two
ropes together, or to make any object fast
to another. They are, however, very use-
ful in many ways, especially aboard ship,
and they are so handsome and interesting
that every one interested in rope work
should learn to make them. The simplest
of the fancy knots is known as the " Single
Crown" (Fig. no). To form this knot
unlay the strands of a new, flexible rope for
six to eight inches and whip the ends of
each strand, as well as the standing part, to
prevent further untwisting. Hold the rope
in your left hand and fold one strand over
77
78 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
and away from you, as shown in A , Fig. 1 1 1 .
Then fold the next strand over A (see J3,
Fig. in), and then, while holding these in
place with thumb and finger, pass the strand
C over strand B, and through the bight of
A as shown in the illustration. Now pull
Fig. i io. — Single crown. Fig. hi. — Single crown (making).
all ends tight and work the bights up smooth
and snug; cut off ends and the knot is
complete. This single crown is a very poor
knot to stand by itself, however, and is
mainly valuable as a basis for other more
complicated knots and for ending up rope.
To end up a rope with a crown it is merely
necessary to leave the projecting ends long
and then by bringing them down tuck under
the strands of the standing part, as shown in
Fig. 112. Then halve the strands and tuck
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK
79
again, as in making a short splice, until the
result appears as in Fig. 1 13. This makes a
neat, handy, and ship-shape finish to a
Fig. 112. — Single crown
tucked (making).
Fig. 113. — Single crown
tucked (complete).
rope's end and is very useful for painters,
halyards, etc. It will never work loose like
a seizing and is quickly put on at any time,
Fig. 114. — Wall knot.
whereas to make a seizing one must be pro-
vided with small stuff of some sort, and
this is frequently not at hand. The
"Wall Knot" (Fig. 114) is aim simple
as the crown, and in fad Is practically a
8o
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
crown reversed. In making this knot bring
C downward and across the standing part ;
then bring A over C and around standing
part and finally bring B over A and up
through bight of C, Fig. 115. When drawn
snug the ends may be trimmed off close
Fig. 115.— Wall knot
(making).
Fig. 116.— Wall knot
(tucked).
or they may be tucked and tapered as in
the crown and will then appear as in Fig.
116. As in the case of the crown knot, the
wall is mainly of value as an ending when
ends are tucked, or as a basis for more
ornamental knots such as the "Wall and
Crown," or "Double Wall," or "Double
Crown." It is also very largely used in ma-
king "Shroud Knots " (Fig. 117). The com-
mon shroud knot is made by opening up the
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK 8 1
strands of a rope's end as for a short splice
and placing the two ends together in the
same way. Then single "wall " the strands of
one rope around the standing part of an-
other against the lay, taper the ends, and
Fig. 117. — Shroud knot Fig. 118. — Shroud knot
(complete). (making).
tuck and serve all with yarn or marline
(Fig. 118). The "French Shroud Knot" is
far neater and better, but is a little harder
to make. Open up the strands and place
closely together as for the short splice;
make a loop of strand A, pass the end of B
through the bight of A , as at C, make a loop
of strand D, and pass the end of strand A
through it as at D; then pass the end of
6
82 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
strand D through the bight of strand B and
one side is complete. Repeat the operation
on the other side, draw all ends taut, and
Fig. 119. — French shroud Fig. 120. — French shroud
knot (making). knot (complete).
taper and tuck the ends. The whole
should then be served carefully and the
finished knot will appear as in Fig. 120.
Double wall and double crown as well
as the beautiful double wall-and-crown
knots are made exactly like the single
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK
83
crown or wall but instead of trimming
off or tucking the ends they are carried
around a second time following the lay of
Fig. 121 A, — Making double Fig. 121 B. — Making double
crown. wall.
the first, as shown in Fig. 12 1, which shows
the construction of a double crown at A,
Fig. 122. — Double crown Fig. 123. — Double wall
(complete). (complete).
and a double wall at B. When finished,
the ends may be- tucked or trimmed and
the two knots will look like Figs. 122 and 123.
84
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
A far better effect is obtained by " Crown-
ing' ' a wall knot. This is done by first
making a single wall knot and then by
bringing strand A up over the top and lay-
ing B across A and bringing C over B and
through the bight of A; a crown knot is
formed above the wall, as shown in Figs.
124 and 125. This is the foundation of the
Fig. 124.— Wall crowned
(making).
Fig. 125. — Wall crowned
(complete).
most beautiful of rope-end knots, known as
the "Double Wall and Crown," or "Man-
rope Knot," illustrated in Fig. 126. Make
your single wall and crown it, but leave
the strands all slack; then pass the ends
up and through the bights of the slack
single-wall knot and then push them along-
side the strands in the single crown; push-
FANCY KNOT- AND ft >RK 85
ing them through the same bight in 1
crown and downward through the walling.
This may seem quite difficult, but if you
have learned the wall and crown you will
find it simple enough, for it is really men
"following" the strands of the single wall
and crown. The result, if properly done,
Fig. 126. — Double wall and Fig. 127. — Double wall and
crown. crown (compl
and ends drawn tight and cut off closely,
is surprising, and to the uninitiated m
perplexing, for if the ends are tapered and
tucked through the standing part of the
ropes, as shown in Fig. 127, there will be no
sign of a beginning or end. this knot.
This is probably the most useful 1 na-
tive knots and is largely used aboard ship
for finishing the end- of rope railings, tr-
ends of man-rope-, for the ends of yoke-
86
KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
lines and to form " stoppers' ' or " toggles"
to bucket handles, slings, etc. Its use in
this way is illustrated in Figs. 128-130,
which show how to make a handy topsail-
halyard toggle from an eye splice turned
in a short piece of rope and finished with a
double wall and crown at the end. These
toggles are very useful about small boats,
as they may be used as stops for furling
Fig. 128 Fig. 129 Fig. 130
Figs. 128, 129, and 130. — Topsail-halyard toggle.
sails, for slings around gaffs or spars, for
hoisting, and in a variety of other ways
which will at once suggest themselves to
the boating man.
The most difficult of ending knots and
one which you should certainly learn is the
"Matthew Walker" (Fig. 131), also known
as the " Stopper Knot." To form this
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK
87
splendid knot, pass one strand around the
standing part of the rope and through its
Fig. 131.— Matthew Walker (making)
c
Fig. 132. — Matthew Walker (complete but slack).
own bight, then pass B underneath and
through bight of A and through its own
88 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
bight also; next pass C underneath and
around and through the bights of A, B,
and its own bight. The knot will now
appear as in Fig. 132, but by carefully haul-
ing the ends around and working the bight
taut a little at a time the knot will assume
the appearance shown in Fig. 133. This
is a handsome and useful knot and is widely
A C B
Fig. 133. — Matthew Walker (complete).
used on ends of ropes where they pass
through holes, as for bucket handles, ropes
for trap-door handles, chest handles, etc.
The knot is well adapted for such purposes,
as it is hard, close, and presents an almost
flat shoulder on its lower side.
The " Turk's Head," Figs. 135 and 136,
is a knot much used aboard yachts and war-
ships and is so handsome and ornamental
that it is a great favorite. It is used in
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK 89
ornamenting rigging, in forming shoulders
or rings on stays or ropes to hold other gear
in place, to ornament yoke lines, and for
forming slip-collars on knife lanyards. It
is also used to form collars around stan-
chions or spars, and, placed around a rope
close beneath a man-rope knot, it gives a
beautiful finish. When made of small line
sailors often use the Turk's Head as a neck-
erchief fastener. Although so elaborate in
effect, it is really an easy knot to make, and
while you may have difficulty in getting it
right at first a little patience and practice
will enable you to become proficient and
capable of tying it rapidly and easily in any
place or position. To make a Turk's Head,
have a smooth, round stick, or other object,
and some closely twisted or braided small
line. Pass two turns of the line around the
rod, A, Fig. 135, from left to right, and pass
the upper bight down through the lower
and reeve the upper end down through it, as
at B. Then pass the bight up again and
run the end over the lower bight and up
between it and the upper bight. Turn the
upper bight again through the lower one
and pass the end over what is HOW the upper
90 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE
WORK
FlG- 135.— Making Turk's head.
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK 9 1
bight and between it and the lower, C, Fig.
135. Now work from left to right, follow-
ing the lay of the knot (or, in other words,
passing your long end alongside the first
end), D, Fig. 135, until a braid of two or
Fig. 136. — Turks' heads. Fig. 137. — Turk's cap.
more lays is completed, as shown in Fig. 136.
The Turk's Head may be drawn as tight as
d< sired around the rope, or rod, by working
up the slack and drawing all bights taut.
A variation of the knot may he formed by
making the first part as described and then
92 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
Fig. 138.— Worming, parcelling, and serving.
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK
93
by slipping the knot to the end of the rod;
work one side tighter than the other until
the "Head" forms a complete cap, as shown
in Fig. 137. This makes a splendid finish
for the end^ of flagpoles, stanchions, etc.
Fig. 139. — Half-hitch work. Fig. 140. — Half-hitch work.
Ropes that are to be used as hand-lines,
stanchions, man-ropes, railings, or in fact
wherever a neat appearance counts, are
usually wormed, served, and parcelled.
Worming consists in twisting a small line
into the grooves between the strands of
rope, A, Fig. 138. This fills up the grooves
and makes the rope smooth and ready for
serving or parcelling. Parcelling consists
in covering the rope already wormed with a
strip of canvas wound spirally around it
94 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
with the edges overlapping, B, Fig. 138.
Serving is merely wrapping the rope with
spun yarn, marline, or other small stuff,
C, Fig. 138. Although this may all be done
by hand, yet it can be accomplished far
better by .using a " Serving Mallet," shown
in D, Fig. 138. This instrument enables
Fig. 141. — Four-strand braid (making).
you to work tighter and more evenly than
by hand, but in either case you must have
the rope, to be served stretched tightly be-
tween two uprights. Often a rope is served
without parcelling and for ordinary pur-
poses parcelling is not required. A varia-
tion of serving is made by " half-hitch' '
work, as shown in Figs. 139-140. This is
very pretty when well done and is very easy
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK 95
to accomplish. Take a half-hitch around
the rope to be served, then another below it;
draw snug; take another half-hitch and so
on until the object is covered and the series
Fig. 142. — Four-strand braid (complete).
of half-hitch knots forms a spiral twist, as
shown in the illustrations. Bottles, jugs,
ropes, stanchions, fenders, and numerous
other articles may be covered with half-
hitch work ; and as you become more expert
Fig. 143. — Crown-braid.
you will be able to use several lines of half-
hitches at the same time. Four-strand
braiding is also highly ornamental and is
easy and simple. The process is illustrated
96 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
in Fig. 141, and consists in crossing the
opposite strands across and past one an-
other, as shown in A, B, C, Fig 141. Still
Fig. 144. — Rope buckle.
more ornamental is the "Crown-braid"
which appears, when finished, as in Fig. 143.
The process of forming this braid is exactly
Fig. 145. — Swivels.
like ordinary crowning and does not require
any description; it may be done with any
number of strands, but four or six are usually
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK
97
as many as the beginner cares to handle at
one time.
When the rope-worker has mastered all
the knots, ties, bends, hitches, and splices I
Fig. 146
Fig. 147 Fig. 148
Figs. 146, 147, and 148. — Slings.
have described, he will find a new field open
to the use of rope in innumerable ways.
Barrel- s, bales, or other objects may
be roped, or slung, with ease and security;
ropes will be pressed into service for straps
7
98 KNOTS, SPLICES, AND ROPE WORK
and belts; and buckles may be readily
formed by the simple expedient shown in
Fig. 144. If a swivel is required it can be
arranged as shown in Fig. 145, while several
simple slings are illustrated in Figs. 146-148.
In a factory, or machine shop, rope belting
will often prove far better than leather, and
if well spliced together will run very smooth-
ly and evenly even on long stretches. As a
recreation for killing time aboard ship, or on
rainy vacation days, few occupations will
prove more enjoyable than tying fancy
knots and making new splices and bends or
inventing new variations of the numerous
hitches, ties, and knots you already know.
INDEX
Artificial eye, 61 62, 63
Baggage, 56
Barrels, 47
Beams, 39
Belaying-pin, 66
Belaying-pin splice, 65, 66,
Belting, 98
Bends, 7, 17
Bight, 17, 18
Billet, 30
Blackwall hitch, 37, 38
Blocks, 59, 71
Bolt-rope, 14
Bow-knots, 35
Bow-line, 44, 46
Bow-line on bight, 47
Bow shortening, 56
Boxes, 59
Bridles, 53
Builders' hitch, 33, 34
Builders' knot, 6
Bundles, 35, 36
Butchers' knots, 6
Cable, 13, 14
Casks, 47
Catspaws, 36, 37
Chain hitch, 38, 39
Chain knots, 51, 77
Chests, 58, 59
67
Cleat, 44
Cleat tie, 45
Clinches, 19, 64
Close band, 65, 68
Clove hitch, 32, 33, 34, 37,
39,43
Cordage, 13
Core, 14
Cotton, 13
Cotton rope, 16
Crown braid, 95, 96
Crowning, 84
Crown knots, J7t 78, 79, 80,
82, 83, 84, 85
Cuckolds' necks, 19, 31, 64
Cut splice, 75
Deadeye lashing, 65, 66
Deadeyes, 65
Dogshanks, 56
Double chain, 52
Double crown, 80, 82, 83
Double figure-eight, 26
Double knots, 50
Double plait, 77
Double wall, 80, 82, 83
Double wall and crown, 82f
End, 17, ib
Ending, 70
99
TOO
INDEX
Ending rope, 70
End pointing, 65, 68
Eyes, 61, 67
Eye splice, 74, 75, 80
Fancy knots, 77
Fibres, 13
Fid, 17 _
Figure-eight knot, 20, 26
Fisherman's hitch, 40, 41,
Fisherman's knot, 6, 23, 24
Fivefold knot, 51
Flemish eye, 61, 62, 68
Fourfold knot, 50, 77
Four-strand braid, 95
Four-stranded rope, 14
French shroud knot, 81, 82
Gaff-topsail halyard bend, 41,
42
Garrick bend, 2jt 28, 29
Gordian knot, 4
Granny knot, 21
Grass, 16
Grommets, 50, 57, 58, 59,
62
Gunners' knot, 33
Gut lines, 23
Half-hitch, 31, 32, 33, 34, 38,
4i, 67
Half-hitch and seizing, 29
Half-hitch work, 93, 94
Handcuff kings, 48
Handcuffs, 49
Handles, 58, 59
Handspike, 39
Hawser hitch, 28
Hawsers, 41
Hemp, 13
Hemp rope, 16
History of rope, 3
Hitches, 7, 30
Hooks, 36, 39
Introduction, 3
Jute, 13, 16
Lanyards, 67
Larks' heads, 30, 31, 43, 44
Lashed cut splice, 64
Lashings, 65, 66
Laying up, 58
Leather braid, 53, 54, 55
Left-handed rope, 14
Long splice, 73
Loop lashings, 66
Loop knots, 48
Loops, 19, 43, 47, 50, 67
Magnus hitch, 39
Manacles, 48
Manila rope, 16
Manrope knot, 84
Marline, 59, 60, 61
Marline spike, 17, 30, 72
Marline-spike seamanship, 45
Matthew Walker knot, 86,
87, 88
Midshipmen's hitch, 40, 41
Monkey chain, 52, 53
Mooring knots, 43
INDEX
101
Necklace tie, 65, 67
Nettles, 69
Nooses, 43
Open chain, 54
Open-hand knot, 22
Ordinary knot, 24
Overhand knot, 20, 50, 58
Packages, 35
Parcelling, 92, 93
Parts of rope, 18
Pier bend, 43
Pointed rope, 70
Pointing, 68, 69
Quoits, 58
Reef knot, 21, 22
Reefing knots, 20
Repairing rope, 76
Rigging, 65
Right-hand rope, 14
Rings, 19, 39, 41, 58, 59, 64
Roband hitch, 40
Rolling hitch, 39
Rope, 13, 14
Rope buckles, 96
Rose lashing, 65, 66
Round turn, 41
Running bow-line, 46
Running knot, 48
Running noose, 43, 44
Sailors' knots, 6, 44, 45
Seized shortening, 55
Seizing, 17, 65, 67
Selvagee, 50, 59
Selvagee board, 60
Selvagee strap, 60
Serving, 92, 94
Serving mallet, 92, 94
Sevagee, 59
Sheaves, 70
Sheep . 56, 57, 58
Shortenings, 50
Short splice, 71, 73, 75
Shroud knots, 80, 81, 82
Silk, 16
Simple hitch, 28
Simple knots, 17, 35
Single plait, 51, 52, 53, jj
Sinkers, 23
Sisal flax, 16
Sixfold knot, 50, 77
Slings, 97, 98
Slip knots, 47
Slippery hitch, 31, 32
Snaking, 69
Spars, 34, 41, 60
Spiles, 33, 43, 44
Splices, 65, 71, 72, 75
Splicing, 70
Square knots, 20, 21, 22,
68
Standing part, 17, 18
Stopper knot, 87
Stoppers, 86
Stops, 61
Strands 13
Strap-, 59
Strength of rope, 15
String, 13
Studding-sail bend, 39, 40
102
INDEX
Swivels, 96, 98
Tackle, 39
Threefold knot, 51
Throat seizing, 62, 63
Ties, 30
Timber, 38, 67
Timber hitch, 33, 35, 69
Toggles, 31, 57, 58, 67, 86
Tomfool knot, 47, 49
Topsail-halyard toggle, 86
Treble knot, 50
Turks' caps, 90, 93
Turks' heads, 88t 89, 90,
91
Twine, 13
Twist braid, 54
Twist knot, 77
Twist shortening, 51
Twists, 36, 52
Wall and crown, 80
Wall crowned, 84
Wall knots, 79, 80
Warp, 69
Waterman's knot, 43, 44
Weaver's knot, 6, 25, 26
Wedding knot, 65
Weight of rope, 15
Wharf tie, 45
Whipping, 17, 18, 65
Wind knots, 5
Wire rope, 16
Worming, 92, 93
Yarn, 13, 59, 60
u.i^imwj'Mmm^m^j^m^Wjmm^^
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INDEX OF SUBJECTS
Brazing and Soldering 3
Cams
Charts
Chemistry ,
Civil Engineering 4
Coke 4
Compressed Air 4
Concrete 5
Dictionaries 5
Dies— Metal Work 6
Drawing— Sketching Paper 6
Electricity 7
Enameling 9
Factory Management, etc 9
Fuel 10
Gas Engines and Gas 10
Gearing and Cams 11
Hydraulics 11
Ice and Refrigeration 11
Inventions— Patents 12
Lathe Practice 12
Liquid Air 12
Locomotive Engineering 12
Machine Shop Practice 14
Manual Training 17
Marine Engineering 17
Metal Work-Dies 6
Mining 17
Miscellaneous 18
Patents and Inventions 12
Pattern Making 18
Perfumery 18
Plumbing 19
Receipt Book 24
Refrigeration and Ice 11
Rubber 19
Saws 20
Screw Cutting 20
Sheet Metal Work 20
Soldering 3
Steam Engineering 20
Steam Heating and Ventilation 22
Steam Pipes 22
Steel 22
Watch Making 23
Wireless Telephones 23
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BRAZING AND SOLDERING
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CHEMISTRY
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COKE
COKE— MODERN COKING PRACTICE; INCLUDING
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continued. Chap. IX. Charging and Discharging of Coke Ovens.
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so that any mechanic can understand a sketch or drawing in
this way. Saves time in the drawing room and mistakes in the
shops. Contains practical examples of various classes of work.
50 cents
SELF-TAUGHT MECHANICAL DRAWING AND ELE-
MENTARY MACHINE DESIGN. By F. L. Sylvester, M.E.,
Draftsman, with additions by Erik Oberg, associate editor of
"Machinery." A practical elementary treatise on Mechanical
Drawing and Machine Design, comprising the first principles of
geometric and mechanical drawing, workshop mathematics,
mechanics, strength of materials and the calculation and design
of machine details, compiled for the use of practical mechanics
and young draftsmen. 82.00
A NEW SKETCHING PAPER. A new specially ruled paper
to enable you to make sketches or drawings in isometric per-
spective without any figuring or fussing. It is being used for
shop details as well as for assembly drawings, as it makes one
sketch do the work of three, and no workman can help seeing
just what is wanted. Pads of 40 sheets, 6x9 inches, 25 cents.
Pads of 40 sheets, 9x12 inches, 50 cents
ELECTRICITY
ARITHMETIC OF ELECTRICITY. By Prof. T. O'Conor
Sloane. A practical treatise on electrical calculations of alJ
kinds reduced to a series of rules, all of the simplest forms, and
involving only ordinary arithmetic; each rule illustrated by
one or more practical problems, with detailed solution of eacn
one. This book is classed among the most useful works pub-
lished on the science of electricity covering as it does the mathe-
matics of electricity in a manner that will attract the attention
of those who are not familiar with algebraical formulas. 160
r>ages. S1.00
COMMUTATOR CONSTRUCTION. By Wm. Baxter,
Jr. The business end of any dynamo or motor of the direct
current type is the commutator. This book goes into the de-
signing, building, and maintenance of commutators, shows
how to locate troubles and how to remedy them; everyone who
fusses with dynamos needs this. 25 cents
DYNAMO BUILDING FOR AMATEURS, OR HOW TO
CONSTRUCT A FIFTY WATT DYNAMO. By Arthur
J. Weed, Member of N. Y. Electrical Society. This book is a
practical treatise showing in detail the construction of a small
dynamo or motor, the entire machine work of which can be done
on a small foot lathe.
Dimensioned working drawings are given fof each piece of
machine work and each operation is clearly described.
This machine when used asa dynamo has an output of fifty
watts; when used as a motor it will drive a small drill press or
lathe. It can be used to drive a sewing machine on any and all
ordinary work.
The book is illustrated with more than sixty original engrav-
ings showing the actual construction of the different parts. Paper.
Paper 50 cents Cloth SI .00
ELECTRIC FURNACES AND THEIR INDUSTRIAL
APPLICATIONS. By J. Wright. This is a book which will
prove of interest to many classes of people; the manufacturer
who desires to know what product can be manufactured success-
fully in the electric furnace, the chemist who wishes to post
himself on the electro-chemistry, and the student of science
who merely looks into the subject from curiosity. 288 pages.
$3.00
ELECTRIC LIGHTING AND HEATING POCKET
BOOK. By Sydney F. Walker. This book puts in conven-
ient form useful information regarding the apparatus which is
likely to be attached to the mains of an electrical company.
Tables of units and equivalents are included and useful electrical
laws and formulas are stated. 43 8 pages, 3 00 engravings. 83.00
ELECTRICTOY MAKING, DYNAMO BUILDING. AMI
ELECTRIC MOTOR CONSTRUCTION. This work
of the making at home of electrical toys, electrical apparatus,
motors, dynamos, and instruments in general, and is designed to
bring within the reach of young and old the manufacture of gen-
uine and useful electrical appliances. 185 pages. Fully illus-
trated, si.oa
ELECTRIC WIRING, DIAGRAMS AND SWITCH-
BOARDS. By Newton Harrison. This is the only complete
work issued snowing and telling you what you should know
about direct and alternating current wiring. It is a ready
reference. _ The work is free from advanced technicalities and
mathematics. Arithmetic being used throughout. It is in every
respect a handy, well-written, instructive, comprehensive
volume on wiring for the wireman, foreman, contractor or elec-
trician. 272 pages, 105 illustrations. $1.50
1 ELECTRICIAN'S HANDY BOOK. By Prof. T. O'Conor
Sloane. This work is intended for the practical electrician,
who has to make things go. The entire field of Electricity is
covered within its pages. It contains no useless theory; every-
thing is to the point. It teaches you just what you should
know about electricity. It is the standard work published on
the subject. Forty-one chapters, 610 engravings, handsomely
bound in red leather with titles and edges in gold. S3.50
ELECTRICITY IN FACTORIES AND WORKSHOPS,
ITS COST AND CONVENIENCE. By Arthur P. Haslam.
A practical book for power producers and power users showing
what a convenience the electric motor, in its various forms, has
become to the modern manufacturer. It also deals with the
conditions which determine the cost of electric driving, and
compares this with other methods of producing and utilizing
power. 312 pages. Very fully illustrated. $2.50
ELECTRICITY SIMPLIFIED. By Prof. T. O'Conor
Sloane. The object of "Electricity Simplified" is to make the
subject as plain as possible and to show what the modern con-
ception of electricity is; to show how two plates of different
metals immersed in acid can send a message around the globe;
to explain how a bundle of copper wire rotated by a steam engine
can be the agent in lighting our streets, to tell what the volt, ohm
and ampere are, and what high and low tension mean; and to
answer the questions that perpetually arise in the mind in this
age of electricity. 172 pages. Illustrated. $1.00
HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL ELECTRICIAN.
By Prof-. T. O'Conor Sloane. An interesting book from cover
to cover. Telling in simplest language the surest and easiest way
to become a successful electrician. The studies to be followed,
methods of work, field of operation and the requirements of the
successful electrician are pointed out and fully explained.
202 pages. Illustrated. $1.00
MANAGEMENT OF DYNAMOS. By Lummis-Pater-
son. A handbook of theory and practice. This work is arranged
in three parts. The first part covers the elementary theory of
the dynamo. The second part, the construction and action of
the different classes of dynamos in common use are described;
while the third part relates to such matters as affect the prac-
tical management and working of dynamos and motors. 292
pages, 117 illustrations. $1.50
STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By Prof. T.
O'Conor Sloane. A practical handbook of reference contain-
ing definitions of about 5,000 distinct words, terms and phrases.
The definitions are terse and concise and include every term
used in electrical science. 682 pages, 393 illustrations. $3.00
8
SWITCHBOARDS. By William Baxter, Jr. This book
appeals to every engineer and electrician who wants to know
the practical side of things. All sorts and conditions of dynamos,
connections and circuits are shown by diagram and illustrate
just how the switchboard should be connected. Includes direct
and alternating current boards, also those for arc lighting, in-
candescent, and power circuits. Special treatment on high
voltage boards for power transmission. 190 pages. Illustrated.
81.50
TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION, INSTALLATION,
WIRING, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE. By W. H.
Radcliffe and H. C. Cushing. This book gives the principles
of construction and operation of both the Bell and Independent
instruments; approved methods of installing and wiring them;
the means of protecting them from lightning and abnormal cur-
rents; their connection together for operation as series or bridg-
ing stations; and rules for their inspection and maintenance.
Line wiring and the wiring and operation of special telephone
systems are also treated. 180 pages, 125 illustrations. SI. 00
WIRING A HOUSE. By Herbert Pratt. Shows a house
already built; tells just how to start about wiring it. Where to
begin; what wire to use; how to run it according to insurance
rules, in fact just the information you need. Directions apply
equally to a shop. Fourth edition. 25 cents
WIRELESS TELEPHONES AND HOW THEY WORK.
By James Erskine-Murray. This work is free from elaborate
details and aims at giving a clear survey of the way in which
Wireless Telephones work. It is intended for amateur workers
and for those whose knowledge of Electricity is slight. Chap-
ters contained: How We Hear — Historical — The Conversion of
Sound into Electric Waves — Wireless Transmission — The Pro-
duction of Alternating Currents of High Frequency — How the
Electric Waves are Radiated and Received — The Receiving
Instruments — Detectors — Achievements and Expectations —
Glossary of Technical Work. Cloth. SI. 00
ENAMELING
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY RECEIPT BOOK.
Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. A work of 10,000 practical
receipts, including enameling receipts for hollow ware, for
metals, for signs, for china and porcelain, for wood, etc. Thor-
ough and practical. See page 24 for full description of this book.
S3.00
FACTORY MANAGEMENT, ETC.
MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIP-
MENT AND MANAGEMENT. By O. E. Perrigo, M.E. A
work designed for the practical and every-day use of the Archi-
tect who designs, the Manufacturers who build, the Engineers
who plan and equip, the Superintendents who organize and
direct, and for the information of every stockholder, director,
officer, accountant, clerk, superintendent, foreman, and work-
man of the modern machine shop and manufacturing plant of
Industrial America. $5.00
FUEL
COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTION
OF SMOKE. By Wm. M. Barr. To be a success a nrema*:i
must be "Light on Coal." He must keep his fire in good con-
dition, and prevent, as far as possible, the smoke nuisance.
To do this, he should know how coal burns, how smoke is formed
and the proper burning of fuel to obtain the best results. He
can learn this, and more too, from Barr's "Combustion of Coal."
It is an absolute authority on all questions relating to the Firing
of a Locomotive. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. SI. 00
SMOKE PREVENTION AND FUEL ECONOMY. By
Booth and Kershaw. As the title indicates, this book of 197
pages and 75 illustrations deals with the problem of complete
combustion, which it treats from the chemical and mechanical
standpoints, besides pointing out the economical and humani-
tarian aspects of the question. 92.50
GAS ENGINES AND GAS
CHEMISTRY OF GAS MANUFACTURE. By H. M.
Royles. A practical treatise for the use of gas engineers, gas
managers and students. Including among its contents — Prepa-
rations of Standard Solutions, Coal, Furnaces, Testing and
Regulation. Products of Carbonization. Analysis of Crude Coal
Gas. Analysis of Lime. Ammonia. Analysis of Oxide of Iron.
Naphthalene. Analysis of Fire-Bricks and Fire-Clay. Weldom
«md Spent Oxide. Photometry and Gas Testing. Carbur-
etted Water Gas. Metrooolis Gas. Miscellaneous Extracts.
Useful Tables. $4.50
GAS ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, Or How to Build a Half-
Horse-power Gas Engine. By Parsell and Weed. A prac-
tical treatise describing the theory and principles of the action of
gas engines of various types, and the design and construction of a
half-horse-power gas engine, with illustrations of the work in
actual progress, together with dimensioned working drawings giv-
ing clearly the sizes of the various details. 300 pages. $2.50
GAS, GASOLINE, AND OIL ENGINES. By Gardner D.
Hiscox. Just issued, 18th revised and enlarged edition. Every
user of a gas engine needs this book. Simple, instructive, and
right up-to-date. The only complete work on the subject. Tells
all about the running and management of gas, gasoline and oil
engines as designed and manufactured in the United States.
Explosive motors for stationary, marine and vehicle power are
fully treated, together with illustrations of their parts and tabu-
lated sizes, also their care and running are included. Electric
Ignition by Induction Coil and Jump Sparks are fully explained
and illustrated, including valuable information on the testing for
economy and power and the erection of power plants.
The special information on producer and suction gases in-
cluded cannot fail to prove of value to all interested in the gen-
eration of producer gas and its utilization in gas engines.
The rules and regulations of the Board of Fire Underwriters
in regard to the installation and management of Gasoline Motors
is given in full, suggesting the safe installation of explosive motor
power. A list of United States Patents issued on Gas, Gasoline
and Oil Engines and their adjuncts from 1875 to date is included.
484 pages. 410 engravings. $3.50 net
I
MODERN GAS ENGINES AND PRODUCER GAS
PLANTS. By R. E. Mathot, M.E. A practical treatise of
)3o pages, fully illustrated by 175 detailed illustrations, setting
orth the principles of gas engines and producer design, the selec-
tion and installation of an engine, conditions of perfect opera-
tion, producer-gas engines and their possibilities, the care of gas
engines and producer-gas plants, with a chapter on volatile
hydrocarbon and oil engines. This book has been endorsed by
Dugal Clerk as a most useful work for all interested in Gas Engine
installation and Producer Gas. $2.50
GEARING AND CAMS
BEVEL GEAR TABLES. By D. Ag. Engstrom. No one
who has to do with bevel gears in any way should be without
this book. The designer and draftsman will find it a great con-
venience, while to the machinist who turns up the blanks or cuts
the teeth, it is invaluable, as all needed dimensions are given
and no fancy figuring need be done. SI. 00
CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. By Oscar E. Perrigo. A
book for every designer, draftsman and mechanic who is inter-
ested in feed changes for any kind of machines. This shows what
has been done and how. Gives plans, patents and all information
that you need. Saves hunting through patent records and rein-
venting old ideas. A standard work of reference. $1.00
DRAFTING OF CAMS. By Louis Rouillion. The
laying out of cams is a serious problem unless you know how to
go at it right. This puts you on the right road for practically
any kind of cam you are likely to run up against. 25 cents
HYDRAULICS
HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING. By Gardner D. Hiscox.
A treatise on the properties, power, and resources of water for all
purposes. Including the measurement of streams; the flow of
water in pipes or conduits; the horse-power of falling water;
turbine and impact water -wheels; wave-motors, centrifugal,
reciprocating, and air-lift pumps. With 300 figures and dia-
grams and 36 practical tables. 320 pages. $4.00
ICE AND REFRIGERATION
POCKET BOOK OF REFRIGERATION AND ICE MAK-
ING, By A. J. Wallis-Taylor. This is one of the latest and
most comprehensive reference books published on the subject
of refrigeration and cold storage. It explains the properties and
refrigerating effect of the different fluids in use, the manage-
ment of refrigerating machinery and the construction and insula-
tion of cold rooms with their required pipe surface for different
degrees of cold; freezing mixtures and non-freezing brines,
temperatures of cold rooms for all kinds of provisions, cold
storage charges for all classes of goods, ice making and storage of
ice, data and memoranda for constant reference by refrigerating
engineers, with nearly one hundn ntaining valuable
references to every fact and condition required in the installment
and operation of a refrigerating plant. SI. 60
II
INVENT I0Ng-3>ATE fits '
INVENTOR'S MANUAL, HOW TO MAKE A PATENT
PAY. This is a book designed as a guide to inventors in per-
fecting their inventions, taking out their patents, and disposing
of them. It is not in any sense a Patent Solicitor's Circular,
nor a Patent Broker's Advertisement. No advertisements of any
description appear in the work. It is a book containing a quarter
of a century's experience of a successful inventor, together with
notes based upon the experience of many other inventors. $1.00
LATHE PRACTICE
MODERN AMERICAN LATHE PRACTICE. By Oscar
E. Perrigo. An up-to-date book on American Lathe Work,
describing and illustrating the very latest practice in lathe and
boring-mill operations, as well as the construction of and latest
developments in the manufacture of these important classes of
machine tools. 300 pages, fully illustrated. $2.50
PRACTICAL METAL TURNING. By Joseph G. Horner.
A work of 404 pages, fully illustrated, covering in a comprehen-
sive manner the modern practice of machining metal parts in
the lathe, including the regular engine lathe, its essential design,
its uses, its tools, its attachments, and the manner of holding the
work and performing the operations. The modernized engine
lathe, its methods, tools, and great range of accurate work. The
Turret Lathe, its tools, accessories and methods of performing
its functions. Chapters on special work, grinding, tool holders,
speeds, feeds, modern tool steels, etc., etc. $3.50
TURNING AND BORING TAPERS. By Fred H. Col-
vin. There are two ways to turn tapers; the right way and
one other. This treatise has to do with the right way; it tells
you how to start the work properly, how to set the lathe, what
tools to use and how to use them, and forty and one other little
things that you should know. Fourth edition. 25 cents
LIQUID AIR
LIQUID AIR AND THE LIQUEFACTION OF GASES.
By T. O'Conor Sloane. Theory, history, biography, practical
applications, manufacture. 365 pages. Illustrated. $2.00
LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING
AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By Robert H. Blackall.
This book is a standard text book. It covers the Westinghouse
Air-Brake Equipment, including the No. 5 and the No. 6 E T
Locomotive Brake Equipment; the K (Quick-Service) Triple
Valve for Freight Service; and the Cross-Compound Pump.
The operation of all parts of the apparatus is explained in detail,
and a practical way of finding their peculiarities and defects,
with a proper remedv, is given. It contains 2,000 questions with
their answers, which will enable any railroad man to pass any
examination on the subject of Air Brakes. Endorsed and used
by air-brake instructors and examiners on nearly every rail-
road in the United States. 23d Edition. 380 pages, fully
illustrated with folding plates and diagrams. $2.00
12
AMERICAN COMPOUND LOCOMOTIVES. By Fred
H. Colvin7. The most complete book on compounds published.
Shows all types, including the balanced compound. Makes
everything clear by many illustrations, and shows valve setting,
breakdowns and repairs. 142 pages. $1.00
APPLICATION OF HIGHLY SUPERHEATED STEAM
TO LOCOMOTIVES. By Robert Garbe. A practical book.
Contains special chapters on Generation of Highly Superheated
Steam; Superheated Steam and the Two-Cylinder Simple
Engine; Compounding and Superheating; Designs of Locomotive
Superheaters; Constructive Details of Locomotives using Highly
Superheated Steam; Experimental and Working Results. Illus-
trated with folding plates and tables. $2.50
COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTION
OF SMOKE. By Wm. M. Barr. To be a success a fireman
must be " Light on Coal." He must keep his fire in good con-
dition, and prevent as far as possible, the smoke nuisance.
To do this, he should know how coal burns, how smoke is formed
and the proper burning of fuel to obtain the best results. He
can learn this, and more too, from Barr's "Combination of Coal."
It is an absolute authority on all questions relating to the Firing
of a Locomotive. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. $1.00
LINK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SETTING. By
Fred H. Colvin, Associate Editor of "American Machinist."
A handy book that clears up the mysteries of valve setting.
Shows the dirTcrent valve gears in use, how they work, and why.
Piston and slide valves of different types are illustrated and
explained. A book that every railroad man in the motive-
power department ought to have. Fully illustrated. 50 cents.
LOCOMOTIVE BOILER CONSTRUCTION. By Frank
A. Kleinhans. i The only book showing how locomotive
boilers are built in modern shops. Shows all types of boilers
used; gives details of construction; practical facts, such as
life of riveting punches and dies, work done per day, allowance
for bending and flanging sheets and other data that means dol-
lars to any railroad man. 421 pages, 334 illustrations. Six
folding plates. $3.00
LOCOMOTIVE BREAKDOWNS AND THEIR REM-
EDIES. By Geo. L. Fowler. Revised by Wm. W. Wood,
Air-Brake Instructor. Just issued 1910 Revised pocket edition.
It is out of the question to try and tell you about every subject
that is covered in this pocket edition of Locomotive Breakdowns.
Just imagine all the common troubles that an engineer may ex-
pect to happen some time, and then add all of the unexpected
ones, troubles that could occur, but that you had never thought
about, and you will find that they are all treated with the very
best methods of repair. Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear
Troubles, Electric Headlight Troubles, as well as Questions and
Answers on the Air Brake are all included. 294 pages. Fully
illustrated. $1.00
LOCOMOTIVE CATECniSM. By Robert Grimshaw.
27th revised and enlarged edition. This may well be called an
encyclopedia of the locomotive. Contains over 4.000 examina-
tion questions with their answers, including among them those
asked at the First, Second and Third year's Examinations.
825 pages, 437 illustrations and 3 folding plates. $2.50
13
NEW YORK AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By Robert
H. Blackall. This is a complete treatise on the New York
Air-Brake and Air-Signalling Apparatus, giving a detailed de-
scription of all the parts, their operation, troubles, and the
methods of locating and remedying the same. 200 pages, fully
illustrated. 81.00
POCKET-RAILROAD DICTIONARY AND VADE ME-
CUM. By Fred H. Colvin, Associate Editor "American
Machinist." Different from any book you ever saw. Gives clear
and concise information on just the points you are interested in.
It's really a pocket dictionary, fully illustrated, and so arranged
that you can find just what you want in a second without an
index. Whether you are interested in Axles or Acetylene; Com-
pounds or Counter Balancing; Rails or Reducing Valves; Tires
or Turntables, you'll find them in this little book. It's very
complete. Flexible cloth cover, 200 pages. SI. 00
TRAIN RULES AND DESPATCHING. By H. A. Dalby.
Contains the standard code for both single and double track and
explains how trains are handled under all conditions. Gives all
signals in colors, is^ illustrated wherever necessary, and the
most complete book in print on this important subject. Bound
in fine seal flexible leather. 221 pages. $1.50
WALSCHAERT LOCOMOTIVE YALVE GEAR. By
Wm. W. Wood. If you would thoroughly understand the
Walschaert Valve Gear, you should possess a copy of this book.
The author divides the subject into four divisions, as follows:
I. Analysis of the gear. II. Designing and erecting of the gear.
III. Advantages of the gear. IV. Questions and answers re-
lating to the Walschaert Valve Gear. This book is specially valu-
able to those preparing for promotion. Nearly 200 pages. $1.50
WESTINGHOUSE E T AIR-BRAKE INSTRUCTION
POCKET BOOK CATECHISM. By Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake
Instructor. A practical work containing examination questions
and answers on the E T Equipment. Covering what the E T
Brake is. How it should be operated. What to do when de-
fective. Not a question can be asked of the engineman up for
promotion on either the No. 5 or the No. 6 E T equipment that
is not asked and answered in the book. If you want to thor-
oughly understand the E T equipment get a copy of this book.
It covers every detail. Makes Air-Brake troubles and examina-
tions easy. Fully illustrated with colored plates, showing
various pressures. $2.00
MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE
AMERICAN TOOL MAKING AND INTERCHANGE-
ABLE MANUFACTURING. By J. V. Woodworth. A
practical treatise on the designing, constructing, use, and in-
stallation of tools, jigs, fixtures, devices, special appliances,
sheet-metal working processes, automatic mechanisms, and
labor-saving contrivances; together with their use in the lathe
milling machine, turret lathe, screw machine, boring mill, power
press, drill, subpress, drop hammer, etc., for the working of
metals, the production of interchangeable machine parts, and
the manufacture of repetition articles of metal. 560 pages,
600 illustrations. $4.00
HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL EN-
GINEERING AND ALLIED TRADES. Edited by Joseph
G. Horner. A.M.I.Mech.I. This work covers the entire prac-
tice of Civil and Mechanical Engineering. The best known ex-
perts in all branches of engineering have contributed to these
volumes. The Cyclopedia is admirably well adapted to the needs
of the beginner and the self-taught practical man, as well as the
mechanical engineer, designer, draftsman, shop superintendent,
foreman and machinist.
It is a modern treatise in five volumes. Handsomely bound
in Half Morocco, each volume containing nearly 500 pages, with
thousands of illustrations, including diagrammatic and sectional
drawings with full explanatory details. 825.00 for the com-
plete set of five volumes. S6.00 per volume, when ordered singly.
MACHINE SHOP ARITHMETIC. By Colvin-Cheney.
Most popular book for shop men. Shows how all shop problems
are worked out and "why." Includes change gears for cutting
any threads; drills, taps, shink and force fits; metric system
of measurements and threads. Used by all classes of mechanics
and for instruction of Y. II. C. A. and other schools. Fifth
edition. 131 pages. 50 cents
MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS, POWERS, AND DE-
VICES. By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a collection of 1890
engravings of different mechanical motions and appliances, ac-
companied by appropriate text, making it a book of great value
to the inventor, the draftsman, and to all readers with mechanical
tastes. The book is divided into eighteen sections or chapters
in which the subject matter is classified under the following
heads: Mechanical Powers, Transmission of Power, Measurement
of Power, Steam Power, Air Power Appliances, Electric Powe*
and Construction, Navigation and Roads, Gearing, Motion and
Devices, Controlling Motion, Horological, Mining, Mill and
Factory Appliances, Construction and Devices, Drafting Devices,
Miscellaneous Devices, etc. nth edition. 400 octavo pages.
$2.50
MECHANICAL APPLIANCES, MECHANICAL MOVE-
MENTS AND NOVELTIES OF CONSTRUCTION. By
Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a supplementary volume to the
one upon mechanical movements. Unlike the first volume,
which is more elementary in character, this volume contains
illustrations and descriptions of many combinations of motions
and of mechanical devices and appliances found in different lines
of Machinery'. Each device being shown by a line drawing with
a description showing its working parts and the method of opera-
tion. From the multitude of devices described, and illustrated,
might be mentioned, in passing, such items as conveyors and
elevators, Prony brakes, thermometers, various types of boilers,
solar engines, oil-fuel burners, condensers, evaporators, Corliss
and other valve gears, governors, gas engines, water motors of
various descriptions, air ships, motors and dynamos, automobile
and motor bicycles, railway block signals, car couples, link and
gear motions, ball bearings, breech block mechanism for heavy
guns, and a large accumulation of others of equal importance.
1,000 specially made engravings. 396 octavo pages. $2.50
QPFP1AI fMmrp These two volumes sell for $2.50 each,
OriLUlAl- UrrLK but when the twQ volumes are ordered
at one time from us, we send them prepaid to any address in the
world, on receipt of $4.00. You save $1 by ordering the two
volumes of Mechanical Movements at one time.
MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIP-
MENT AND MANAGEMENT. By Oscar E. Perrigo.
The only work published that describes the Modern Machine
Shop or Manufacturing Plant from the time the grass is growing
on the site intended for it until the finished product is shipped.
Just the book needed by those contemplating the erection of
modern shop buildings, the rebuilding and reorganization of old
ones, or the introduction of Modern Shop Methods, Time and
Cost Systems. It is a book written and illustrated by a prac-
tical shop man for practical shop men who are too busy to read
theories and want facts. It is the most complete all-around book
of its kind ever published. 400 large quarto pages, 225 original
and specially-made illustrations. $5.00
MODERN MACHINE SHOP TOOLS; THEIR CON-
STRUCTION, OPERATION, AND MANIPULATION. By
W. H. Vandervoort. A work of 555 pages and 673 illustra-
tions, describing in every detail the construction, operation, and
manipulation of both Hand and Machine Tools. Includes
chapters on filing, fitting, and scraping surfaces; on drills, ream-
ers, taps, and dies; the lathe and its tools; planers, shapers,
and their tools; milling machines and cutters; gear cutters and
gear cutting; drilling machines and drill work; grinding ma-
chines and their work; hardening and tempering; gearing,
belting and transmission machinery; useful data and tables.
$4.00
THE MODERN MACHINIST. By John T. Usher. This
book might be called a compendium of shop methods, showing a
variety of special tools and appliances which will give new ideas
to many mechanics from the superintendent down to the man
at the bench. It will be found a valuable addition to any machin-
ist's library and should be consulted whenever a new or difficult
job is to be done, whether it is boring, milling, turning, or plan-
ing, as they are all treated in a practical manner. Fifth edition.
320 pages, 250 illustrations. $2.50
MODERN MECHANISM. Edited by Park Benjamin. A
practical treatise on machines, motors and the transmissien of
power, being a complete work and a supplementary volume to
Appleton's Cyclopedia of Applied Mechanics. Deals solely with
the principal and most useful advances of the past few years.
959 pages containing over 1,000 illustrations; bound in half
morocco. ■ $4.00
MODERN MILLING MACHINES: THEIR DESIGN,
CONSTRUCTION AND OPERATION. By Joseph G.
Horner. This book describes and illustrates the Milling Ma-
chine and its work in such a plain, clear, and forceful manner,
and illustrates the subject so clearly and completely, that the
up-to-date machinist, student, or mechanical engineer can not
afford to do without the valuable information which it contains.
It describes not only the early machines of this class, but notes
their gradual development into the splendid machines of the
present day, giving the design and construction of the various
types, forms, and special features produced by prominent
manufacturers, American and foreign. 304 pages, 300 illustra-
tions. S4.00
M SHOP KINKS." By Xobert Grimshaw. This shows
special methods of doing work of various kinds, and reducing
cost of production. Has hints and kinks from some of the largest
si ops in this country and Europe. You are almost sure to nnd
some that apply to your work, and in such a way as to save time
and trouble. 400 pages. Fourth edition. $2.50
16
TOOLS FOR MACHINISTS AND WOOD WORKERS.
INCLUDING INSTRUMENTS OF MEASUREMENT. By
Joseph G. Horner. A practical treatise of 340 pages, fully
illustrated and comprising a general description and cia
tion of cutting tools and tool angles, allied cutting tools for
machinists and woodworkers; shearing tools; scraping tools;
saws; milling cutters; drilling and boring tools; taps and dies;
punches and hammers; and the hardening, tempering and
grinding of these tools. Tools for measuring and testing work,
including standards of measurement; surface plates; levels;
surface gauges; dividers; calipers; verniers; micrometers;
snap, cylindrical and limit gauges; screw thread, wire and
reference gauges, indicators, templets, etc. $3.50
MANUAL TRAINING
ECONOMICS OF MANUAL TRAINING. By Louis
Rouillion. The only book that gives just the information
needed by all interested in manual training, regarding buildings,
equipment and supplies. Shows exactly what is needed for all
grades of the wo:x from the Kindergarten to the High and Nor-
mal School. Gives itemized lists of everything needed and tells
just what it ought to cost. Also shows where to buy supplies.
$1.60
MARINE ENGINEERING
MARINE ENGINES AND BOILERS, THEIR DESIGN
AND CONSTRUCTION. By Dr. G. Bauer, Leslie S.
Robertson, and S. Bryan* Don-kin. This work is clearly
written, thoroughly systematic, theoretically sound; while the
character of its plans, drawings, tables, and statistics is without
reproach. The illustrations are careful reproductions from
actual working drawings, with some well-executed photographic
views of completed engines and boilers. $9.00 net
MINING
? ORE DEPOSITS OF SOUTH AFRICA WITH A
CHAPTER ON HINTS TO PROSPECTORS. By J. P. John-
son. This book gives a condensed account of the ore-deposits
at present known in South Africa. It is also intended as a guide
to the prospector. Only an elementary knowledge of geology
and some mining experience are necessary in order to under-
stand this work. With these qualifications, it will materially
assist one in his search for metalliferous mineral occurrences
and, so far as simple ores are concerned, should enable one to
form some idea of the possibilities of any they may find.
Among the chapters given are: Titaniferous and Chromif-
erous Iron Oxides — Nickel — Copper — Cobalt — Tin — Molyb-
denum— Tungsten — Lead — Mercury — Antimony — I r o n — Hints
to Prospectors. Illustrated. $2.00
PRACTICAL COAL MINING. By T. H. Cockin. An im-
portant work, containing 428 pages and 213 illustrations, com-
plete with practical details, which will intuitively impart to the
reader, not only a general knowledge of the principles of coal
mining, but also considerable insight into allied subjects. The
treatise is positively up to date in every instance, and should
be in the hands of every colliery engineer, geologist, mine
operator, superintendent, foreman, and all others who are in-
terested in or connected with the industry. $2.50
17
PHYSICS AND CHEMISTRY OF MINING. By T. H.
Byrom. A practical work for the use of all preparing for ex-
aminations in mining or qualifying for colliery managers' cer-
tificates. The aim of the author in this excellent book is to place
clearly before the reader useful and authoritative data which
will render him valuable assistance in his studies. The only work
of its kind published. The information incorporated in it will
prove of the greatest practical utility to students, mining en-
gineers, colliery managers, and all others who are specially in-
terested in the present- day treatment of mining problems. 160
pages. Illustrated. $2.00
MISCELLANEOUS
BRONZES. Henley's Twentieth Century Receipt Book con-
tains many practical formulas on bronze casting, imitation
bronze, bronze polishes, renovation of bronze. See page 24 for
full description of this book. S3. 00
EMINENT ENGINEERS. By Dwight Goddard. Every-
one who appreciates the effect of such great inventions as the
Steam Engine, Steamboat, Locomotive, Sewing Machine, Steel
Working, and other fundamental discoveries, is interested in
knowing a little about the men who made them and their achieve-
ments.
Mr. Goddard has selected thirty-two of the world's engineers
who have contributed most largely to the advancement of our
civilization by mechanical means, giving only such facts as are of
general interest and in a way which appeals to all, whether
mechanics or not. 280 pages, 35 illustrations. 81.50
LAWS OF BUSINESS, By Theophilus Parsons, LL.D.
The Best Book for Business Men ever Published. Treats clearly
of Contracts, Sales, Notes, Bills of Exchange, Agency, Agree-
ment, Stoppage in Transitu, Consideration, Limitations, Leases,
Partnership, Executors, Interest, Hotel Keepers, Fire and Life
Insurance, Collections, Bonds, Frauds, Receipts, Patents, Deeds,
Mortgages, Liens, Assignments, Minors, Married Women, Arbi-
tration, Guardians, Wills, etc. Three Hundred Approved Forms
are given. Every Business Man should have a copy of this book
for ready reference. The book is bound in full sheep, and Con-
tains 864 Octavo Pages. Our special price. $3.50
PATTERN MAKING
PRACTICAL PATTERN MAKING. By F. W. Barrows.
This is a very complete and entirely practical treatise on the
subject of pattern making, illustrating pattern work in wood and
metal. From its pages you are taught just what you should
know about pattern making. It contains a detailed description
of the materials used by pattern makers, also the tools, both
those for hand use, and the more interesting machine tools; hav-
ing complete chapters on The Band Saw, The Buzz Saw, and The
Lathe. Individual patterns of many different kinds are fully
illustrated and described, and the mounting of metal patterns on
plates for molding machines is included. $2.00
PERFUMERY
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE-
CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by G. D.
Hiscox. The most valuable Techno-Chemical Receipt Book
published. Contains over 10,000 practical Receipts many of
which will prove of special value to the perfumer, a mine of in-
formation, up to date in every respect. Cloth, $3.00; half
morocco. See page 24 for full description of this book. 84.00
18
PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. By G. W.
Askinson, Perfumer. A : reatise, in which
there has been nothing omitted that could be of value to the
Perfumer. Complete directions for making handkerchief per-
fumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastilles; preparations
for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair, cosmetics. Ban
a are given, also a detailed description
of aromatic substances; their nature, tests of purity
wholesale manufacture. A book of genera!, as well as profes-
sional interest, meeting the wants not only of the drug*-.
perfume manufac: ^'.so of the general public. Third
edition. 312 pages. Illustrated. $3.00
PLUMBING
MODERN PLUMBING ILLUSTRATED. By R. M.
Starbuck. The a is book, Mr. R.M. Starbuck
of the leading authorities on plumz fa United State:
book represents the highest standard of plum':
been adopted and used as a reference be \ States
Government work in Cuba, Porto Rico and the
: ines, and by the principal Boards of Health of the United
States and Canada.
It gives Connections, Sizes and Working Data for All Fixtures
and Groups of Fixtures. It is helpful to the Master Plumber in
Demonstrating to his customers and in figuring work. It
chanic and Student quick and easy Access to the best
Modern Plumbing Practice. Suggestions tor Estimating Plumb-
ing Construction are contained in its pages. This book repre-
sents, in a word, the latest and best up-to-date practice, and
shoula be in the hands of every architect, sanitary engineer
and plumber t 1 to keep himself up to the minute on this
important feature of construction. 400 octavo pages, fully
illustrated by 55 full-page engravings. W.00
RUBBER
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE-
CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES.
XER D. Hiscox. Contains upward of ic.cco pract:
including among them formulas on artificial rubber. See page
24 for full description of this book. S3. 00
RUBBER HAND STAMPS AND THE MANIPULATION
OF INDIA RUBBER. By T. O'Conor Sloane. This book
gives full details on all points, treating in a concise and
manner the elements of nearly everything it is necessary to under-
stand for a commencement in any branch of the India Rubber
■Ctaie. The making of all kinds of Rubber Hand Stamps,
Small Articles of India Rubber. U. S. Government Composi-
tion, Dating Hand Stamps, the Manipulation of Sheet Rubber,
Toy Balloons. India Rubber Solutions. Cements. Blackings,
Renovating Varnish, and Treatment for India Rubber Shoes,
etc ; the Hektograph Stamp In!
with a Short Account of the Discovery, Collection, and Manufac-
ture of India Rubber are set forth in a manner designed to be
■• understood, the explanations being plain and simple.
Second edition. 144 £>ages. Illustrated. SI. 00
19
SAWS
SAW FILING AND MANAGEMENT OF SAWS. By
Robert Grimshaw. A practical hand book on filing, gumming,
swaging, hammering, and the brazing of band saws, the speed,
work, and power to run circular saws, etc. A handy book for
thoce who have charge of saws, or for those mechanics who do
their own filing, as it deals with the proper shape and pitches of
saw teeth of all kinds and gives many useful hints and rules for
gumming, setting, and filing, and is a practical aid to those who
use saws for any purpose. New edition, revised and enlarged.
Illustrated. $1.00
SCREW CUTTING
THREADS AND THREAD CUTTING. ByXoLViN and
Stabel. This clears up many of the mysteries" of thread-
cutting, such as double and triple threads, internal threads, catch-
ing threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful hints and
several tables. 25 cents
SHEET METAL WORK
DIES, THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOR THE
MODERN WORKING OF SHEET METALS. By J. V.
Woodworth. A new book by a practical man, for those who
wish to know the latest practice in the working of sheet metals.
It shows how dies are designed, made and used, and those who
are engaged in this line of work can secure many valuable
suggestions. $3.00
PUNCHES, DIES AND TOOLS FOR MANUFACTUR-
ING IN PRESSES. By J. V. Woodworth. A work of 500
pages and illustrated by nearly 700 engravings, being an en-
cyclopedia of die-making, punch-making, die sinking, sheet-
metal working, and making of special tools, subpresses, devices
and mechanical combinations for punching, cutting, bending,
forming, piercing, drawing, compressing, and assembling sheet-
metal parts and also articles of other materials in machine tools.
$4.00
STEAM ENGINEERING
AMERICAN STATIONARY ENGINEERING. By W.
E. Crane. A new book by a well-known author. Begins at
the boiler room and takes in the whole power plant. Contains
the result of years of practical experience in all sorts of engine
rooms and gives exact information that cannot be found else-
where. It's plain enough for practical men and yet of value to
those high in the profession. Has a complete examination for a
license. $2.00
* BOILER ROOM CHART. By Geo. L. Fowler. A Chart
— size 14x28 inches — showing in isometric perspective the
mechanisms belonging in a modern boiler room. Water tube
boilers, ordinary grates and mechanical stokers, feed water
heaters and pumps comprise the equipment. The various parts
are shown broken or removed, so that the internal construction
is fully illustrated. Each part is given a reference number, and
these, v/ith the corresponding name, are given in a glossary
printed at the sides. This chart is really a dictionary of the
boiler room — the names of more than 200 parts being given.
It is educational — worth many times its cost. 25 cents
20
ENGINE RUNNER'S CATECHISM. By Robert Grim-
SHaw. Tells how to erect, adjust, and run the principal steam
engines in use in the United States. The work is of a handy
size for the pocket. To young engineers this catechism will be
of great value, especially to those who may be preparing to go
forward to be examined for certificates of competency; and
to engineers generally it will be of no little service as they will
find in this volume more really practical and useful information
than is to be found anywhere else within a like compass. 387
pages. Sixth edition. 82.00
ENGINE TESTS AND BOILER EFFICIENCIES. By
J. Buchetti. This work fully describes and illustrates the
method of testing the power of steam engines, turbine and
explosive motors. The properties of steam and the evapora-
tive power of fuels. Combustion of fuel and chimney draft;
with formulas explained or practically computed. 255 pages,
179 illustrations. 83.00
HORSE POWER CHART. Shows the horse power of any
stationary engine without calculation. No matter what the
cylinder diameter or stroke; the steam pressure or cut-oil; the
revolutions, or whether condensing or non-condensing, it's all
there. Easy to use, accurate, and saves time and calculations.
Especially useful to engineers and designers. 50 cents
MODERN STEAM ENGINEERING IN THEORY AND
PRACTICE. By Gardner D. Hiscox. This is a complete and
practical work issued for Stationary Engineers and Firemen
dealing with the care and management of Boilers, Engines,
Pumps, Superheated Steam, Refrigerating Machinery, Dyna-
mos, Motors, Elevators, Air Compressors, and all other branches
with which the modern_ Engineer must be familiar. Nearly
200 Questions with their Answers on Steam and Electrical
Engineering, likely to be asked by the Examining Board, are
included. 487 pages, 405 engravings. 83.00
STEAM ENGINE CATECHISM. By Robert Grimshaw.
This volume of 413 pages is not only a catechism on the question
and answer principle; but it contains formulas and worked-out
answers for all the Steam problems that appertain to the opera-
tion and management of the Steam Engine. Illustrations of
various valves and valve gear with their principles of operation
are given. 34 tables that are indispensable to every engineer and
fireman that wishes to be progressive and is ambitious to become
master of his calling are within its pages. It is a most valuable
instructor in the service of Steam Engineering. Leading en-
gineers have recommended it as a valuable educator for the be-
ginner as well as a reference book for the engineer. Sixteenth
edition. 82.0(1
STEAM ENGINEER'S ARITHMETIC. By Colvin-
Cheney. A practical pocket book for the Steam Engineer.
Shows how to work the problems of the engine room and shows
"why." Tells how to figure horse-power of engines and boilers;
area of boilers; has tables of areas and circumferences; steam
tables; has a dictionary of engineering terms. Puts you onto
all of the little kinks in figuring whatever there is to figure
around a power plant. Tells you about the heat unit; absolute
zero; adiabatic expansion; duty of engines; factor of safety;
and 1. 001 other things; and everything is plain and simple —
not the hardest way to figure, but the easiest. 50 cents
STEAM HEATING AND VENTILATION
PRACTICAL STEAM, HOT-WATER HEATING AND
VENTILATION. By A. G. King. This book is the standard
and latest work published on the subject and has been prepared
for the use of all engaged in the business of steam, hot -water
heating and ventilation. It is an original and exhaustive work.
Tells how to get heating contracts, how to install heating and
ventilating apparatus, the best business methods to be used, with
"Tricks of the Trade" for shop use. Rules and data for esti-
mating radiation and cost and such tables and information as
make it an indispensable work for everyone interested in steam,
hot-water heating and ventilation. It describes all the principal
systems of steam, hot -water, vacuum, vapor and vacuum-
vapor heating, together with the new accelerated systems of
hot-water circulation, including chapters on up-to-date methods
of ventilation and the fan or blower system of heating and venti-
lation.
You should secure a copy of this book, as each chapter con-
tains a mine of practical information. 367 pages, 300 detailed
engravings. $3.00
STEAM PIPES1
STEAM PIPES: THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUC-
TION. By Wm. H. Booth. The work is well illustrated in regard
to pipe joints, expansion offsets, flexible joints, and self -contained
sliding joints for taking up the expansion of long pipes. In fact,
the chapters on the flow of Steam and expansion of pipes are most
valuable to all steam fitters and users. The pressure strength of
pipes and method of hanging them is well treated and illustrated.
Valves and by-passes are fully illustrated and described, as are
also flange joints and their proper proportions. Exhaust heads
and separators. One of the most valuable chapters is that on
superheated steam and the saving of steam by insulation with
the various kinds of felting and other materials, with comparison
tables of the loss of heat in thermal units from naked and felted
steam pipes. Contains 187 pages. 82.00
STEEL
AMERICAN STEEL WORKER. By E. R. Markham.
The standard work on hardening, tempering and annealing steel
of all kinds. A practical book for the machinist, tool maker or
superintendent. Shows just how to secure best results in any
case that comes along. How to make and use furnaces and case
harden; how to handle high-speed steel and how to temper for all
classes of work. $2.50
HARDENING, TEMPERING, ANNEALING, AND
FORGING OF STEEL. By J. V. Woodworth. A new book
containing special directions for the successful hardening and
tempering of all steel tools. Milling cutters, taps, thread dies,
reamers, both solid and shell, hollow mills, punches and dies,
and all kinds of sheet-metal working tools, shear blades, saws,
fine cutlery and metal-cutting tools of all descriptions, as well
as for all implements of steel both large and small, the simplest,
and most satisfactory hardening and tempering processes are
presented. The uses to which the leading brands of steel may be
adapted are concisely presented, and their treatment for work-
ing under different conditions explained, as are also the special
methods for the hardening and tempering of special brands.
320 pages, 250 illustrations. S3.50
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE-
CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by Gard-
ner D. Hiscox. The most valuable techno-chemical Receipt
book published, giving, among other practical receipts, methods
of annealing, coloring, tempering, welding, plating, polishing
and cleaning steel. See page 24 for full description of this book.
$3.00
WATCH MAKING
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE-
CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by
Gardner D. Hiscox. Contains upwards of 10,000 practical
formulas including many watchmakers' formulas. 83.00
WATCHMAKER'S HANDBOOK. By Claudius Saumer.
No work issued can compare with this book for clearness and
completeness. It contains 498 pages and is intended as a work-
shop companion for those engaged in Watchmaking and allied
Mechanical Arts. Nearly 250 engravings and fourteen plates
are included. S3.00
WIRELESS TELEPHONES
WIRELESS TELEPHONES AND HOW THEY WORK.
By James Erskine-Murray. This work is free from elaborate
details and aims at giving a clear survey of the way in which
Wireless Telephones work. It is intended for amateur workers
and for those whose knowledge of Electricity is slight. Chap-
ters contained: How We Hear — Historical — The Conversion of
Sound into Electric Waves — Wireless Transmission — The Pro-
duction of Alternating Currents of High Frequency — How the
Electric Waves are Radiated and Received — The Receiving
Instruments — Detectors — Achievements and Expectations —
Glossary of Technical Words. Cloth. SI. 00
Henley's Twentieth Century
Book of
Recipes, Formulas
and Processes
Edited by GARDNER D. HISCOX, M.E.
Price $3.00 Cloth Binding $4.00 Half Morocco Binding
Contains over 10,000 Selected Scientific, Chemical,
Technological and Practical Recipes and
Processes, including Hundreds of
So-Called Trade Secrets
for Every Business
THIS book of 800 pages is the most complete Book of
Recipes ever published, giving thousands of recipes
for the manufacture of valuable articles forevery-day
use. Hints, Helps, Practical Ideas and Secret Processes
are revealed within its pages. It covers every branch of
the useful arts and tells thousands of ways of making
money and is just the book everyone should have at his
command.
The pages are filled with matters of intense interest and
immeasurable practical value to the Photographer, the
Perfumer, the Painter, the Manufacturer of Glues, Pastes,
Cements and Mucilages, the Physician, the Druggist, the
Electrician, the Brewer, the Engineer, the Foundryman,
the Machinist, the Potter, the Tanner, the Confectioner,
the Chiropodist, the Manufacturer of Chemical Novelties
and Toilet Preparations, the Dyer, the Electroplater,
the Enameler, the Engraver, the Provisioner, the Glass
Worker, the Goldbeater, the Watchmaker and Jeweler,
the Ink Manufacturer, the Optician, the Farmer, the Dairy-
man, the Paper Maker, the Metal Worker,the Soap Maker,
the Veterinary Surgeon, and the Technologist in general.
A book to which you may turn with confidence that you
will find what you are looking for. A mine of informa-
tion up-to-date in every respect. Contains an immense
number of formulas that every one ought to have that are
not found in any other work.
: ••••:; ,y.
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